citizenM Taipei North Gate

With an understated façade, this place feels like a hidden gem for those in the know. The tearoom-like lobby leads into a minimalist dining room where a brightly lit open kitchen takes centre stage. The menu celebrates Japanese culinary culture, but with the odd Taiwanese twist and global influences. From shirako with bottarga to mussel noodles and wood-fired pigeon, every course is a beauty to behold and a delight to taste.

Formerly a members-only dining club, it excites not by its decor, but by shrewdly executed Huaiyang and Sichuan classics, alongside Taiwanese favourites. The veteran head chef cuts back on oil and salt without sacrificing flavour. The main room is quiet and spacious; private rooms are perfect for banquets. Arrive early if you wish to enjoy a long lunch.

Chef Paul Lee leads a talented young kitchen team in presenting a tasting menu that elevates Taiwanese street food to the level of haute cuisine. Asian and European flavours mingle harmoniously in refined dishes made with quality local produce and imported ingredients are perfected by modern techniques. Non-alcoholic beverage pairings by the mixology virtuoso enhance the experience. On top of the tasting menu, add-ons are available.

An alumnus of several world-renowned restaurants in New York City, the head chef recounts his eclectic journey with a 10- or 14-course omakase-style tasting menu. From your counter seat, watch the hushed team skilfully prepare every dish with Asian ingredients and a Japanese culinary ethos. A standout is the kamameshi course that melds Japanese and European techniques. For the full experience, try the wine pairings or temperance flight.

This household name on the beef noodle scene has been building up a loyal following since 1949. The broth is slow cooked with beef bones and a blend of 10 Chinese herbs. Its exceptional flavour and depth perfectly complement the delicious ribbon noodles, which are hand-pulled to order. The tender local and Aussie beef is of course a highlight. Cold sides such as pork ear in aspic and pickled cabbage are made fresh daily.

With a Japanese façade and a Scandinavian-inspired interior, NOBUO is all about breaking boundaries. Born in Taiwan and raised in Japan, the head chef revisits his cultural roots, marrying Franco-Japanese techniques with Taiwanese produce. The single tasting menu is visually minimalist but packed in intensity. The scallops stand out in texture and umami, the meat demonstrates well-honed French technique and the curry is inspired by his childhood memories.

Having had almost 30 years’ experience working in renowned sushi restaurants in Taipei, the owner-chef opened here in 2017. The décor is traditionally Japanese, with solid wood countertops imported from Canada. He insists on shipping the fish from Japan three times a week and his rice is seasoned with three different kinds of vinegar. Only omakase menus are available; the monk fish liver sushi is a standout.