JR WEST GROUP VIA INN SHINAGAWA OIMACHI

One of the essential processes of wheat cultivation is treading the wheat. When the wheat plants bud, farmers tread them down so they grow up strong. The owner-chef named his shop Muginae, ‘wheat seedling’, as a prayer that it would grow as it overcame adversity, a hopeful shoot on the forest floor. Ramen, fragrant and homemade, has a smooth finish. Soup is seasoned with soy sauce, salt and dried sardines. Word has spread like wildfire, and now customers tread the streets of Minamioi from early morning for a cup of this restaurant’s delicious broth.

The name derives from an image of a Jizo, the guardian spirit who looks over children, which the chef received from a Buddhist temple. The character for ‘sushi’ is an unusual choice, harking back to the fermented fish from which modern nigirizushi originated. The chef is deeply interested in literature and the classics. As snacks were not part of a sushi shop’s menu in the days of food stalls, the chef presents the range of toppings available before starting to form his sushi. Gizzard shad is moulded in the shape of the Edo-era Katsuyama hairstyle. In a relic of traditional practice, shrimp on

The chef has devoted his life to the path of the tempura craftsman. He watches his pot in silence, focusing on the sound of the oil. Frying his tempura on high heat, he teases out moisture to concentrate the flavour. Creative flourishes are avoided, letting the deliciousness of ingredients in season speak for itself. Batter thickness and flame heat are continually adjusted to produce a light and airy tempura. A traditional Japanese tea-house carpenter created the interior, transforming it into a graceful space.

The pet theory here is that French cuisine does not add but multiplies: dishes are the product, not the sum, of their ingredients. The speciality is an espuma of sea urchin and Jerusalem artichoke, which is replaced with onion during summer. Food from sea and mountain mix, aiming at just the right temperature to melt in the mouth. To ensure consistency, vegetables are harvested from the chef’s own garden. Financier, served after the meal, offers a wry nod to the restaurant’s name, with a play on both the pastry and the financier as one who benefits from gold, echoing the alchemist’s quest to t

For Joël Robuchon, ‘emperor of French cuisine’, this eponymous restaurant is the jewel in the crown of the company. Kenichiro Sekiya, recipient of the prestigious Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF) and heir to both the spirit and cuisine of his famous mentor, uses Japanese ingredients to breathe new life into French gastronomy. His interpretation of Le Caviar Imperial evolves from generation to generation. Even the trolley service is the pinnacle of luxury. A table of magnificence as befits the hall of the emperor.

The chef, once dedicated solely to Cantonese cuisine, expanded his repertoire as he honed his craft in Hong Kong and Shanghai. Prix fixe menus incorporate traditions from regions across China, using ingredients selected from a broad purview. The chef focuses not only on seasoning but also on the natural flavours of the ingredients; dried abalone simmered in water alone testifies to his conviction. After dinner the chef serves Chinese tea, conveying gratitude to guests as he converses with them.

Northern Europe and Japan share comparable climates and have cultivated similar lore in fermentation. Building on his experience in Denmark, the chef cross-fertilised the fermentation cultures of the two countries to create a cuisine bursting with originality. The item simply labelled ‘Tsukemono’ or ‘Pickles’ is a traditional element of Japanese cuisine. Mackerel marinated in vinegar is mated with handmade miso. Ojiya, a kind of rice gruel, derives inspiration from fermented crucian carp sushi, a hometown-cooking favourite. The theme of ‘fermentation’ harmonises avant-garde with tradition.