Shama Serviced Apartments Zijingang Hangzhou

Slightly off the beaten track, the wood- and bamboo-rich interior exudes a rustic, farmhouse feel. Similarly, farm-style cooking from the Qiandao Lake region defines the menu, showcasing ingredients like dried bamboo shoot, free-range chicken, river fish and foraged greens. Sautéed fiddlehead with cured ham packs big crispy flavours. Thick rice soup is loaded with tofu, chillies, garlic, pork intestine and dried fiddlehead, boasting deep umami.

Since 1987, diners have been flocking here for authentic traditional Hangzhou food. The head chef excels at preparing river fish, such as river shrimps in Huadiao wine, a feast of runny roe, briny-sweet meat and mesmerising aromas. With a bit of luck, you will get to savour the tender oily flesh of steamed river eel with Chinese ham – best enjoyed with their home-brewed bayberry wine. Ask the servers about the daily specials.

The restaurant’s location outside the city centre – in Xixi National Wetland Park – doesn’t deter diners! The lush surroundings, charming garden, understated decor and quality food make the trip worthwhile. Taizhou classics like deep-fried hairtail and braised giant yellow croaker are a must. Surprisingly, the kitchen is also well-versed in Hangzhou cooking, such as soft, chewy braised pork intestine, jazzed up with a dash of spiciness.

The sign says ‘1987’ because that is when the owner became a professional chef. Known for authentic Hangzhou cooking at bargain prices, this neighbourhood joint does not have a paper menu. Pick your own river fish and veggies, and specify how you want them cooked or check out the blackboard for specials. Sweet and sour pork ribs boast a crisp crust covered in a punchy sauce. Finish with sweet glutinous rice wine with osmanthus aroma made from house-made distillers’ grains.

After renovation, this hub dedicated to Chinese tea, art and all things Zen befits Hangzhou’s moniker as a cultural jewel. Its adjoining eatery still serves vegetarian food with Zhejiang twists; all-time favourites like soy-marinated walnuts, fresh tofu skin in thick broth and red braised stinky tofu are still on the menu. Thickly sliced lurid bolete sautéed with green chillies stands out with aroma and toothsome texture.

Nothing speaks of the ethos of this restaurant serving Wenzhou and Taizhou dishes more eloquently than its name – yes, freshness is key. The freshest seafood from southern Zhejiang, such as razor clams, live oysters and mud whelks are prepared in myriad ways. The springy fishcake bursts with seafood umami. The duck soup with Chinese herbal medicine is both tasty and nourishing. The dim sum, eg rice cake or wheat cake, are rustic and comforting.

The owner, who hails from Shaoxing, insists on driving back to his hometown every other day to source the freshest ingredients for his restaurant – which explains why the menu is handwritten on a white board and different every day. That said, the must-try stinky tofu is a permanent fixture: made with 20-plus-year-old fermenting brine from his family, it has rich deep flavours that complement the lamb brain it is steamed with. Try the river fish, too.