Tokyo Green Palace

This gustatory experience is a journey through Peru. The menu features the culinary traditions of the Andes and the ecosystem of the Amazon basin. Each menu item lists the producing region and, uniquely, its elevation. Taking these altitudes as a guide, the meal traces a route through sea, mountain and river, weaving a tale of diverse natural environments. Dried foods from Peru combine with Japanese ingredients to bring forth a cuisine that is richly imaginative.

The Tokyo location was born from a meeting between the founder of the Hotel New Otani and the owner of the Paris flagship. The original restaurant, established in 1582, is said to be where the fork was first introduced. The legendary ‘Three Emperors Dinner’ at the 1867 Paris Exposition remains a historic milestone. Among the enduring specialities, the Three Emperors- style goose foie gras remains a constant. This stage for haute cuisine continues to foster connections and inspire harmony.

Hideki Ishikawa’s guiding principle is ‘mui-shizen’: serve cuisine that is true to nature, free from artifice. Flavours are light, respecting each ingredient. Simplicity makes presentations all the more impressive, with consideration for harmony among flavours. Niigata rice is cooked fresh and served in earthen bowls, imparting the taste of the chef’s homeland. Kitchen and service staff work together with the practised solidarity of a well-rehearsed team.

The Chinese character for ‘food’ combines the characters for ‘person’ and ‘good’, hence the saying of Akasaka Shimabukuro, ‘food makes us better’. With gratitude for the bonds he forms with guests and those around him, the chef follows his own culinary path. The mellow flavour of the clear broth used in wanmono derives from shaved bonito flakes. Soba with dried mullet roe, interposed between menu items, and juwari soba, served at the end, are house creations using native species of buckwheat. The calligraphy on the wall says ‘go-en’, ‘personal connections’, echoing the restaurant’s whole-heart

Experimentation with new flavours blows winds of innovation into Japanese cuisine. The chef’s purview extends to Western ingredients such as truffle and caviar. Reverence for dashi, however, keeps his dishes within the bounds of Japanese cuisine. The chef treads a unique path, weaving creativity and Western flamboyance into Japanese fare. The counter seats are always fully booked but, with luck, a cancellation might make the private dining room available.

Down a narrow blind alley in a corner of Arakicho known for its dining spots, a traditional lantern casts a soft glow. Inside, the intimate space offers counter seating only, where the chef demonstrates the refined techniques of kappo. The menu favours individuality over formality. With the first toast in mind, fried dishes appear early in the meal. Steamed sushi seasoned with red vinegar is paired with seasonal seafood, and house-made soba is another highlight. The generosity of each portion adds to the satisfaction.

Makoto Onozawa finds inventive ways to break the mould while respecting tradition. Soup dishes and sashimi uphold the basics, reassuring the diner. Broiled unagi seasoned in soy-based sweet sauce is served together with broiled unseasoned unagi for a special treat. Rolled sushi of tuna and pickled daikon radish are served in the intervals, bringing satisfaction. The meal concludes on two comfort-food notes: soba and curry. Breaking tradition, after all, is about seeing the job to completion.