The Okura Tokyo

The long table bears a close resemblance to the dining tables of European nobility. Dinner is served table d’hôte: guests gather around a single large table, sharing the joy of good food and conversation. Reading the mood of the era, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate serves up delicious food and eco-consciousness, actively incorporating plant-based ingredients. The choice of vegetarian dishes as main meals is a new twist. Whether vegetarian or vegan, the fare blazes a fresh trail in vegetable cuisine.

The name of the restaurant means ‘highest compliment’ or ‘apex’. The pinnacle of cuisine, perched on the top floor of a soaring skyscraper, is the concept here. The precepts of apothéose are a trinity: respect for French culinary culture; a deep spirit of inquiry into Japanese ingredients; and devotion to knowing the present moment. Willingness to experiment, unconstrained by convention, ensures customers understand the joys of food.

Applying experience in Paris and Copenhagen, the chef layers Scandinavian innovation on top of Japanese ingredients and the French classics. One embodiment of these influences is the foie gras torchon, an encounter between Kakegawa tea from the chef’s hometown and foie gras. Mushrooms delivered from producers in Shizuoka Prefecture are fermented and made into a soup. Modern French cuisine bursting with creativity, the chef’s roots and the bounty of food producers overlay each other to form a winning combination.

What Kanako Wakimoto aims to deliver is simple, honest deliciousness. Ingredients in season are picked when they are ripe, reaping maximum nutrition in each season. The chef’s sweeping selection of meat dishes, rice dishes and sweets stems from her earnest desire to please the customer. To suggest closeness to nature, Wakimoto named her restaurant Sorahana, ‘Sky Flower’. As she devotes herself to her cooking, Wakimoto is in her element, like flowers blooming in a field under the sky.

Although rooted in French techniques, the cuisine here minimises butter and cream, allowing the natural aromas and flavours of the ingredients to shine in a lighter finish. Chilled oysters with seawater and citrus jelly, as well as kadaif-wrapped john dory, have become the chef’s signature dishes. A plant-based vegan course also reflects his philosophy. ‘Edition’ speaks to his approach of constantly editing and refining recipes, always updating them.

To spread the joy of Kyoto cuisine beyond the ancient capital, Kikunoi opened a Tokyo branch. Guests are warmly greeted with cheerful calls of ‘Oide-yasu!’, a traditional welcome in the Kyoto dialect. While located in central Tokyo, the mood, taste and feel of the restaurant are pure Kyoto. Yearly events are woven into the menu, and eye-catching dishes served on brilliantly decorated plates. Western ingredients are included too, expressing contemporary flavours. An attractive feature is the choice of tatami mat or counter seating, combining the charms of ryotei and kappo.

Being originally located in the grounds of Seishoji Temple is why Daigo began serving shojin ryori. What Nomura inherits as the restaurant’s fourth-generation owner is shojin ryori for gracious service. Note that dried bonito flakes are used in the broth, so the meals are not completely vegetarian. The nutrition and flavour of the vegetables and the sukiya architecture put the mind at ease. Relax and enjoy this moment of tranquillity.