Hops and the Vines

Situated right in the centre of this historic market town and encased within glass walls on three sides, this self-described ‘illegitimate trattoria’ is a love letter to straightforward Italian cooking, fused with seasonal British ingredients. In the day, it operates as the coffee shop and bakery Ferment & Flour, before the Italian vibe takes over in the evening. Start with a couple of cicchetti before one of the stand-out homemade pastas, be that casarecce with preserved wild garlic, truffle and parmesan, or well-crafted crab agnolotti. Add in friendly service and you have a winning formula.

An appealing mixture of the vintage and the contemporary lend a certain stylishness to the décor at this smart brasserie occupying two former shops in the heart of a small market town. The attractive dishes are packed with flavour and make the most of quality British produce, as with delicious, sweet Cornish crab turned into a simple, fresh-tasting tartlet. Sit in the larger room with its comfy banquettes and copper-topped tables, then treat yourself to a stay in one of the characterful bedrooms.

Parts of this attractive roadside inn reputedly date back to the 16th Century, providing a lovely setting for cooking based around local ingredients. Several of them come from the owners’ own smallholding and others from nearby producers who are named on the menu – sometimes alongside their distance from the restaurant. These ingredients are fashioned into dishes that burst with flavour and don’t overcomplicate matters, like bright, fresh-tasting roasted cod with mussel sauce.