Hotel Shinjukuya

With the temperament of an artist, the chef places everything in its proper proportion. Gathering unpolished buckwheat from Nagano and Niigata, he grinds the two together, checking moisture by hand to produce nihachi and juwari noodles. Soba and broth are served in harmony: as seiro, accompanied by soup redolent of katsuobushi, or as kake, steeped in hot katsuobushi broth. Side dishes are soba-shop favourites, such as Pacific herring simmered for days or seafood and buckwheat flour wrapped in nori and deep-fried.

The menu lists dishes from every corner of Spain, every one a precious memory of the chef. The preponderance of Basque dishes reflects her attendance of a cooking school in San Sebastián and apprenticeship at a restaurant there. We start with pintxo (pinchos), an apt choice for the Spanish pub atmosphere. Piquillo pepper stuffed with dried and salted cod, squid simmered in its ink and other Basque-country favourites are faithfully reproduced here. Experience the food culture of Spain.

The speciality is charcoal-grilled beef and sauce only. On this, the French cuisine of Taira Maeshiba is focused. Ingredients whose producers are listed by name, finely disciplined flame-tending techniques, and traditional yet distinctive sauces combine to form menus only Chef Maeshiba could compose. The fare is simple, the work meticulous.

Fiocchi means ‘snowflakes’ or ‘crystal’, an apt metaphor for that moment when great taste fills our mouths. Lamb wrapped in straw—a dish rooted in Waldensian communities of Piemonte—is served with potatoes baked in ash to draw out sweetness. The combination of ingredients from mountain and sea in one dish signifies the flow of nature that links forest with ocean. The true essence of Italian cuisine, offered to all in Setagaya’s Soshigaya district.

A chance encounter with a single book sparked a lifelong connection with sushi for this chef. His omakase unfolds like a ninjo rakugo performance—beginning with light snacks, before moving into the main story: sushi. The sushi itself progresses like a narrative, a light opening act with squid, building through tuna, cresting with gizzard shad, and tapering off with egg to end the meal. Occasionally, the chef interjects a playful remark to his guests, much like a rakugo performer engaging the audience.

French cuisine overlays ingredients of varying flavours and textures to express a medley of tastes. That defining characteristic, says the chef, is the wellspring of his creative drive and the key to his approach in assembling his menu. Fruits, herbs and spices are all deployed to good effect and with a light touch to create his flavours. Fish and meat dishes always come with sauces, paying homage to the classics. The proprietress is in charge of the desserts. An intimate eatery from a couple who support each other like a synchronized team.

Japanese