A l'Ombre des Pins

Pops is the venture of two fledglings who have flown the cosy nest that is La Mare aux Oiseaux, a recognised incubator of talent. At their restaurant set slightly back from the seafront, Corentin Leverger and Océane Maisonneuve pull out all the stops to delight diners with the freshest of ingredients, such as red mullet, monkfish and scallops. Their subtly creative bistronomy rolls out a feast of textures and bold flavours. Right next door, their bistro Locco serves simpler fare.

This elegant early-20C villa has been done out in a colourful and cosy style, its large windows commanding views of the verdant gardens. Dining alfresco on the lovely, inviting terrace shaded by parasols and surrounded by trees and flower beds is bliss in summertime. The cuisine is traditional with a contemporary twist.

A restaurant in the Royal Hotel, typical of the large seaside hotels of the early 20C. The cosy wood panelling and the photos of actors by Studio Harcourt recall the atmosphere of the Parisian Fouquet's. The menu is inspired by brasserie fare (seafood, sole meunière, fillet of beef with Béarnaise sauce, andouillette, profiteroles), but there are also light dishes – as you would expect at a seawater therapy resort.

Simplicity and quality are the watchwords here. Seafood ingredients are treated with the utmost respect: appetising when presented on the plate, then nicely prepared by chef Antoine Le Moal. The starter of crab, prawn and lobster is fresh and well seasoned, the skate wing carefully cooked, and the rum baba adds the final flourish of deliciousness. The modern interior is elegant, and the friendly service comes with a smile.

A prime example of La Baule’s early-20C seaside architecture, this manor house is home to a hotel and a restaurant appointed in a classical bourgeois style whose windows overlook the grounds and pretty terrace. Local lad Jérémy Coirier draws his inspiration from the region (fish, shellfish, Croisic seaweed, Guérande saffron, Mesquer pigeon) to compose a menu that changes with the seasons.

In a traditional salt workers' village in the heart of the salt marshes, this picturesque white house with snug, cosy dining rooms is open for business. Japanese chef Takashi Aoki crafts a creatively subdued Gallic line-up that showcases the season. The wine list is extremely well curated and the vast majority of the wines are available by the glass.

A meal at this restaurant housed in the outbuildings of a 13C manor on the outskirts of Guérande is a must. Quality ingredients that are meticulously sourced from the region go into modern cuisine with bold flavours. This lunchtime, the starter of asparagus and octopus, enhanced by pronounced herbaceous flavours, was well made; the cod precisely cooked in hazelnut butter was accompanied by tasty ravioli. The pear dessert plays on sweet and sour with great success.