CENTRALE

A short distance from the Atalanta stadium, with the convenience of private parking, this Bergamasque venue defies easy categorisation: to call it simply a corner of Sicily would be to do it a disservice, as the proposal goes beyond any single regional identity. The island’s imprint nonetheless remains clear, reinterpreted with contemporary sensitivity through a series of dishes that range across land and sea, at times drawing on street food, as with the outstanding grilled stigghiola, served with escarole and a lively sweet-and-sour spiced extract. Among the main courses, a noteworthy variati