Business Hotel Raicho

Asakusa is a second hometown for the chef, who has lived here since his apprenticeship. He inherited both spirit and skill, along with tools and serving ware, from his mentor. He reveres the old teachings of the sushi world but does add a few twists of his own. He adds sweet potato shochu to rich soy syrup; to rolled omelette, he adds soy milk. The character for the chef’s surname of ‘Oku’ developed from a combination of the characters for ‘house’, ‘rice’ and ‘palm of hand’; a sign, he contends, that he was destined to run a place where he would fashion rice meals with his hands.

The chef helps out on farms all over Japan, forming bonds of trust with farmers. If you’re interested in the differences among various kinds of soba, we recommend the ‘Sanshu Seiro’, three kinds of soba served on a wickerwork tray. He grinds and kneads each soba differently according to type and region of origin, so the character of each shines through. Sometimes, the chef says, he mixes coarse-ground and fine-ground soba from the same region. His tireless curiosity yields a never-ending variety of flavours.

The chef’s starting point is the ramen his grandmother cooked for him when he was a child. He added ‘Toy Box’ to the name because he wanted to create ramen that holds the same excitement for his guests as a box of toys does for a child. Soy sauce ramen, the shop’s flagship offering, is constantly tinkered with to improve it. In search of a depth of gustatory experience, over 10 types of soy sauce are combined in the broth. Yet the ramen is a dish of simple happiness; noodles from the good old days.

A competitive performance in yakitori run by two brothers, both hailing from other disciplines of Japanese cuisine. Dinner is served prix fixe, with the brothers taking turns serving. Chicken skewers are mainly served salted, keeping the focus on the flavour of the locally raised chicken. As the name ‘Shutei’, meaning something like pub, suggests, the neatly cut snacks and yakitori keep the sake going down smoothly. A number of choices are available for the final dish. Enjoy the ‘baton relay’ of the oyakodon, with the younger brother grilling the chicken and the elder brother wrapping it in eg

Negima-nabe, a tuna and spring onion stew, is a tradition handed down since the days of the shoguns. At a time when lean meat was treasured, this stew was contrived as a way of lightening the texture of toro, the fatty cut of tuna. Enchanted with Edo-era cooking, the proprietress of Negima revived it. True to original recipes, the dish uses neither kombu nor mirin. The meal ends with ‘pepper rice’, a dish of fresh-cooked rice seasoned with broth from the pot and pepper. Sample the pure cooking that true Edo-ites have always loved.

The food looks great, the aroma whets the appetite, the flavour captivates: this ramen sets all five senses tingling. The word ‘Japanese’ in the shop’s name indicates that this is authentic Japan-made ramen; the name is written in Latin script to proclaim Japan’s comfort food to the world. Flavours of each region come together in a single bowl: salt ramen with shijimi and hamaguri clams; soy-sauce ramen with free-range chicken and kombu. Ceramic bowls handmade by a potter are used instead of porcelain. From ingredients to dining ware, the shop revisits the bounty and wonder of Japanese food cu

‘Nakiryu’ means ‘roaring dragon’. The name is rich with meaning: it’s a reference to the dragon of Yakushido Hall in the Nikko Toshogu Shrine, to hopes for business growth, and to the couple who craft bowls of ramen together in perfect sync, both born in the Year of the Dragon. Dandan noodles create a synergy of flavours—layering meat miso, Chinese sesame paste, and chilli oil for a deep, amplified umami. Soy-sauce ramen owes its elegant flavour to its soup, drawn from whole chicken and oysters. À la carte items such as steamed chicken with spicy sauce and shrimp wontons exemplify experience w