The Carnation apartment Ba Dinh 04

Now with a two-storey expansion and lush courtyard, English-speaking staff and a photo menu, this vintage tea house is more tourist-friendly. It retains its North Vietnamese charm with antique decor, artwork and a rustic elegance, and continues to impart the essence of Vietnamese cuisine. Highlights include chả ốc (ham with periwinkle snails) served with herbs, vegetables, vermicelli and fish sauce, and the subtle crab soup with malabar spinach in a clear broth.

Named after a significant year in Vietnamese history, this easy-to-find restaurant sits tucked away in a narrow alley, marked by its bright yellow-and-green townhouse. Nostalgic décor, old wooden tables and vintage photographs add to the charm. Start with the green banana blossom salad with beef, a refreshing combination of tender meat and sweet-sour dressing. The signature fried crab and rice porridge hot pot is the main draw, bringing together crab, pigeon, beef balls and vegetables in a naturally sweet, comforting broth. English menus are available, and booking ahead is recommended.

Built on devotion, this kitchen pays homage to the traditional home cooking of Vietnamese mothers. The chef brings a decade of experience to bear in a repertoire of nearly 100 dishes covering Southern, Central and Northern specialities, each gently cooked with authentic seasonings that preserves their rustic character. In the clam broth, brightened with tomato and pineapple, the clams are deliciously tender, and sweet and sour flavours are expertly balanced.

Khôi Hói means bald head, referring to the owner’s hairstyle. Come here for phở – beef noodle soup. There are many cuts to choose from, including rare cuts like beef heel muscle. You can also specify how you like your beef cooked.

Early risers delight in this beef phở haven, open from 5:30am until mid‐morning, when beef cuts and broth are sold out. Fresh ingredients shine in the signature beef heel muscle, which boasts tender meat and gelatinous tendon with a pleasant chew. Order phở with eggs and fried dough, just like the locals.

One of Hanoi's most iconic eateries, Phở Gia Truyền exemplifies the Northern approach to phở with three options: rare flank, medium rare round or well-done brisket. Each delicious bowl is made to order at the counter, and diners can add crispy quẩy or a golden egg yolk for richness.

Opened over 30 years, this restaurant has three branches on one street. Head to the most popular, at 6B: a pale-yellow, century-old townhouse accessible via a quaint courtyard. The menu stars chả cá, deboned Hemibagrus catfish (cá lăng), seasoned with turmeric, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Served in a hot pot, it is lightly stir-fried with spring onions and herbs – best enjoyed with rice noodles and fish sauce.