The Emerald

Amusingly named after Chef Alfred Petty and his three brothers, this keenly run restaurant sits in the shadow of Truro Cathedral. It’s a smartly designed place with linen-laid tables and a few decorative nods to the Petty boys’ love of board games, such as chess piece artwork on the walls. The ambitious, generous cooking starts with snacks and an amuse bouche, before a concise choice of dishes – such as scallops with a regularly changing sauce, which might be a wonderfully smooth and punchy mix of roe and ’nduja. Attentive service adds to the appeal.