Vacancéole – l’Allée des Dunes – Ondres Plage

Slap-bang in the middle of the Saint Esprit district, Thibault Deverre is at the helm of this entirely refurbished bistro. The chef prepares fresh, spontaneous dishes with delicacy, originality and lashings of flavour: crabmeat, asparagus ice-cream and grapefruit tempura; red tuna, creamy polenta, smoked aubergine dip, crisp red cabbage salad; white chocolate cream, strawberry and gariguette sorbet. A resounding success, especially with Bayonne's young foodies!

Germaine, the chef's grandmother, wouldn't believe her eyes. Her grandson, Maxime Chentouf, works alone behind his counter, serving 15 guests his single – but not surprise – set menu all at once. This amounts to nothing less than a challenge, a feat and a success on the plate, as the chef dreams up creative dishes in which fermentation, Japanese charcoal cooking (robatayaki), citrus fruits and seaweed harmonise subtly. Far from the traditional fare that we might associate with grandma Germaine, this is poetic freedom embodied in dishes showing pure skill and based on excellent local produce.

Sébastien Gravé, something of a celebrity on the Bayonne bistronomic scene, is back on his home turf. He cheerfully crafts dishes inspired by the best produce South-West France has to offer, including hake from Saint-Jean-de-Luz au naturel, Basque trout and Noir de Bigorre pork bacon. You can eat at the zinc-topped counter, at the large table d'hôtes with friends or in the kitchen, where there is a table for two for a more immersive experience. A buzzy, bouncy vibe sets the scene in this feel-good establishment.

Goxoki means an "inviting place" in Basque, which is perfectly suited to this restaurant run by the Hourcastagnou family in the Petit Bayonne neighbourhood. In a timelessly elegant setting, the food shines a spotlight on local seasonal produce. Regulars come back often to tuck into the indulgent, generous dishes.

On the banks of the Nive beneath the arcades, this inviting eatery savvily mixes old stones and beams with a contemporary edge. The traditional score, updated with Basque overtones, stars wholesome indulgent flavours: bourguignon-style braised chuck beef and cheeks with a pastry stuffed with fresh herbs and winter veg or the granny-approved house dessert, cocolait. Very popular with the locals, La Grange is just the place to get a glimpse of the real Bayonne.

This vibrant eatery is housed in a refurbished building that was once home to the commercial court. The original doors and benches have been integrated into the chic contemporary-brasserie decor. It is run by chef Fabian Feldmann (L'Impertinent in Biarritz) and Sarah Feldmann officiates as maître d'. The menu is evenly divided into traditional dishes (eg boudin noir and tête de veau) and more creative, travel-inspired options. Almost all the ingredients are of Basque provenance. The carefully compiled wine list embraces independent winemakers (with a particular penchant for organic and/or natu

In Le Petit Bayonne neighbourhood, a couple who trained at the Ferrandi School in Bordeaux run this discreet restaurant, which they have refurbished in a pared-back style. Loïc cooks the savoury courses; Faustine, the daughter of a pastry chef, is on desserts. Together, using the finest local produce, they meticulously prepare flavoursome dishes – eg line-caught meagre and a medley of heirloom vegetables, Kintoa pork risotto and pickled chanterelles, followed by a superb apple dessert that leaves no doubt as to Faustine's talent.