Les Charmilles

Upstream from Amboise, on the south bank of the Loire, this medieval castle with two massive towers, remodelled during the Renaissance, cannot fail but catch the eye. The edifice peacefully presides over vast formal grounds and staunchly upholds the Loire’s gracious art de vivre. The orangery, part of which is built into the rocky hillside, is the epitome of elegant, and on sunny days it is a treat to sit on the pleasant terrace overlooking the gardens. Chef Arnaud Philippon's cuisine flirts with the zeitgeist: pressed young goat and foie gras, pied bleu mushrooms, wild garlic and mango and co

This attractive, contemporary dining space basks in the light of the windows that open out onto the wooded parkland. The seasonal cuisine never compromises on the quality of the ingredients (Richelieu asparagus, Mouliherne escargots, line-cut meagre etc) and the cellar is packed with regional wines: L'Aubinière restaurant has it all. There are also a number of elegant guestrooms, plus a wellness area.

Under the Ancien Régime, Les Closeaux – set in a 10ha estate – was used as a hunting lodge by the kings of France. Nowadays, this farmhouse inn remains as secluded as ever in a bucolic setting surrounded by greenery. The chef, who champions local producers and is a proponent of short supply chains, creates delicious market-fresh cuisine at affordable prices: loin of saithe, green beans, black rice, tomato, parsley and shallot; apricot and peach puff pastry, apricot ice cream. Lovely terrace.