Lhotel de Mai

Hideaki Matsuo expresses traditional Japanese culture, guided by the traditional cycle of twenty-four seasons. The chef’s messages on the menu are designed to conjure up scenes of nature in front of guests’ eyes, while seasonal flavours and annual events are woven into the cuisine in truly elegant ways. At an Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan event, Matsuo showcased Osaka food culture to the world. He warmly welcomes trainees from overseas, dedicating himself to the development and progress of the industry.

Techniques from every genre of Japanese cuisine are used for tempura; items may be pre-cooked or lightly scored and seasoned to bring out their natural flavour before frying. Keen to highlight Kansai ingredients, the chef stocks octopus, pike conger and tilefish. Osaka flourished as a centre of cotton production, so the chef cooks with a unique cottonseed oil in solidarity with producers. A beacon of Naniwa food culture to the world, with imaginative twists.

The father-and-son team, along with their wives, offer a warm welcome to this kappo with deep roots in Saga. You can order à la carte or omakase style. Fish dishes are the stars of the menu, prepared in a number of ways: steamed with salt and sake, grilled, or however you like. Eel are prepared both unseasoned and dipped in soy-based sauce for you to taste and compare. At lunch the menu of boiled tofu and hiryuzu (deep-fried tofu mixed with thinly sliced vegetable) is the attraction. Treasuring its links with the region it calls home, Okina gets its tofu from Saga.

The shop stands in Takagamine, a hilly area in northern Kyoto. Out of affection for the land where he was born and raised, the chef makes a point of using the region’s produce. Vegetables come from a nearby field cultivated by an old friend. The juiciness of freshly harvested foods and the aroma of the good earth leap from every dish. The meal ends with white rice with one of a variety of toppings, such as raw egg and soy sauce, cooked egg, or hashed beef. Enjoyable and satisfying right to the very end.

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.

The house began life as a travelling fishmonger, carrying fish from Wakasa Bay to scattered markets, then gradually transitioned into a restaurant. The sixth-generation head, Motokazu Nakamura, took over the reins having been the only one entrusted with the craft he learned at his father’s side. For the white miso zoni, he only uses water drawn from a well on the premises to dissolve the miso. Sake-grilled tilefish is doused in sake multiple times, piling flavour on top of flavour. The chef tends the kitchen with his son, who trained abroad, passing skills and spirit from one generation to the

Scrupulous attention is paid to the ceremonial space, cuisine, serving vessels and sense of the seasons. The chef learned his guiding principles at a restaurant in Hozenji Alley. Entrusted with preparing the appetiser platters, he became schooled in the knowledge and aesthetics of Japanese cuisine. Aiming for artistic beauty in all aspects, he grows his own flowers to decorate the sukiya interior and collects seasonal serving vessels to delight guests. Technique, experience and sensibility all merge to create assortments of dishes that celebrate the seasons and their festivals.