illi Esu Nakano

The founder of Sushi Yoshino was once an apprentice at a well-known sushi restaurant in Tokyo’s Kyobashi district. When he became independent, he inherited the shop name, and now his heir and son have hung out their shingle together. Sushi toppings prepared in the old-school way are paired with sushi rice made with red vinegar. The shop captivates with the spirit of a true sushi restaurant. Lighting is used effectively in view of the basement location and the long counter of zelkova wood is a striking feature. Enjoy craftsmanship in both the sushi and the décor.

A Thai restaurant that showcases the cuisine of the ancient city of Chiang Mai and the Isaan region in northeastern Thailand. The menu includes a salad of pounded green papaya, fermented pork sausages, and a soup of stewed beef and herbs. The local style is to eat these with sticky rice steamed in a bamboo basket. The sour and spicy flavours of fermented seasonings, along with the aromas of citrus and fresh herbs, evoke a Thai dinner table.

‘Jiyusan’ is a shop on Mejiro Street. The name is a play on the street’s old name, ‘Jusanken-dori’. Delicately thin seiro soba, made purely from buckwheat served on a wicker tray, offers a pleasing finish. Inaka soba is stone-ground by hand, one grain at a time using a pestle and mortar, and delivers a rich, deep flavour. Appetisers, patiently prepared using techniques the chef learned during his apprenticeship, set the tone—such as shrimp prepared in miso and grilled, or herring fillet simmered slowly over several days.

Enjoy pairings of local cooking with organic wines. The prix fixe opens with onion tart. Vegetable soup fragrant with basil brings memories of their apprenticeship in the south of France. Seeking warm, simple flavours, the chefs rely on time-honoured cooking utensils and techniques. Wearing aprons over everyday clothes, they chat casually with guests. An atmosphere that wants diners to enjoy French cuisine casually.

The name ‘sanka’ refers to three aromas — a trinity of ingredients, sauce and wine. Classical foundations are revisited and reinterpreted through original ideas. A signature dish showcases several varieties of potato, prepared using a range of techniques, sauces and powders to draw out their deep, earthy character. In the spirit of ‘onko-chishin’, the restaurant seeks to evolve French cuisine by learning from the past.

Sushi items lined up inside a glass display case ooze Showa-era ambience. A sushi shop of the old school, and that’s how the chef likes it. Cutting and serving the sushi himself, the chef offers everything from omakase set menus to à la carte. Tuna is marinated in soy sauce; conger eel is coated in a thick, sweet eel sauce; and egg is served ‘kurakake’ or ‘saddle-style’: layered into a cake and split over a bite-sized mound of vinegared rice. The character for ‘sushi’ combines the characters for ‘fish’ and ‘delicious’. The pursuit of essential Edo style expresses the chef’s pride in his craft

‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.