Balcarres, Rodborough Avenue

Something of a hidden gem, this inviting brasserie-style restaurant is situated within a Palladian country house hotel, itself secreted down the narrow lane of an attractive Cotswolds town. Chef Jamie McCallum is quietly putting all his experience to use here on straightforward yet refined dishes where each plate is pleasingly uncluttered. A superb beef Wellington shows the kitchen at its best, accompanied by a pot of deep, rich and glossy Madeira reduction. When execution is skilled and ingredients are strong, there’s little need for anything else.

Everyone is asked to arrive at this well-run restaurant at 7pm – and that usually includes a loyal band of locals. The 3-hour menu takes on a surprise tasting format and there’s the option of matching wines or non-alcoholic options. Humble ingredients are used in ambitious, sometimes rather unusual combinations, which are precisely prepared. Service is structured and passionate, with dishes delivered by the chefs themselves.