VILLA COMMUNICO,Nara

‘Akordu’ is Basque for ‘memories’. Chef Hiroshi Kawashima invokes memories from his ingredients, encapsulating messages in his cooking. Each course in the prix fixe meal comes with a card; menu names are akin to story titles. Kawashima interprets the history and cultural topography of Nara through a modern Spanish sensibility cultivated in Basque country. Cuisine bursting with creativity, beautifully prepared and arranged.

‘Nikon’, meaning ‘live to the full in this moment’, was the principle advocated by Zen master Dogen Zenji (1200–1253). Every day in his kitchen the chef displays the sincere devotion to Japanese cuisine he has had ever since he began at the bottom of the ladder. He focuses above all on the right timing for handling his ingredients: when to prep, when to slice, and so on. Serving at just the right temperature is vital as well. This craftsman’s spirit of applying every ounce of effort in the present moment is reflected in the name of the restaurant.

Falling in love with the cultural landscapes of Nara, the chef opened his restaurant in Naramachi, where he weaves the history and customs of the Yamato region into his menu like a story. The source of his originality lies in the imaginative and creative skills he cultivated overseas. When combined with the skills he honed along the way, the result is a cuisine of refreshing novelty. Ingredients from Buddhist vegetarian dishes and Western cuisine are incorporated, telling the tale of his gastronomic journey. Passion for his craft drives the chef to take Japanese cuisine to new levels.

Guided by the motto ‘Dainty comes from cordiality’, the chef approaches his cuisine with care. Seasonal Yamato vegetables are sourced from nearby farms, as he came to appreciate how fresh vegetables can be while working at a restaurant with its own fields. Hassun platters combine classical techniques with new ideas. The menu reflects the traditions of Japanese cuisine and the touch of the seasons. The chef’s sincere approach shows in his work, a constant reminder of his gratitude for nature’s bounty.

The detached house looks at home amid the venerable townscape of old Nara. Enter the traditional wooden townhouse, however, and a modern atrium greets you, juxtaposing old with new. Offering ‘cuisine that reflects the milieu of Nara and the four seasons’, the owner-chef shines a spotlight on local ingredients, arranging them according to the flavours of the season. Wagyu from Uda is char-grilled; spring is celebrated with Japanese pepper flower, and autumn with matsutake mushrooms. Antique dishware brings out the beauty of simple presentations.

Great care goes into preparations, while the menu reflects traditional annual events, presented with genuine hospitality. The chef faithfully carries on the techniques he learned at Osaka‘s Masuda. The way he continually builds on the reputation of the restaurant by working closely with the chefs is also inherited from his mentor. Hassun is arranged on platters, expressing the beauty of Japanese cuisine. Guided by the maxim ‘Challenge yourself with conviction rather than chasing trends’, the chef carries on the techniques and spirit cultivated over the years.

The history and culture of Nara, told through the local cuisine. The chef makes a special effort to showcase the ingredients of Gojo, the city of his birth. Vegetables gathered each morning bring freshness and vibrancy to the menu; Hinohikari rice is used to make iimushi or steamed mochi rice with seasonal toppings, and takikomi-gohan, or mixed rice. The dishes, hot and fragrant, are served over a counter of Yoshino cedar. The chef enthusiastically shares the stories behind his creations, to ensure diners get a feeling for the landscape where their food comes from, and the people who grew or r