LE MOULIN DE MERAL

Deep in the Normandy countryside, the huge forest of Andaine seems to have put down roots in this wood-rich restaurant as it nurtures and nourishes Franck Quinton’s forest-inspired cooking. His way with mushrooms is second to none: tricholoma, bearded hedgehog, blue foot or grey and yellow oyster mushrooms make guest appearances in his famous “mushroom toastie”. The surrounding woodland plays a prominent role in his cooking, as the Douglas pine used in herbal tea illustrates. A committed champion of local produce, the chef cherry-picks his ducklings, veg from down the road and creamy Gillot AO

Fontaine-Daniel is the epitome of an old French country village and the birthplace of the famous Toiles de Mayenne fabrics. Overlooking a pond and the forest, this venue is housed in a former outbuilding of a Cistercian abbey, which became the hub of this textile manufacturing enterprise in the 19C. Chef William Blondel cooks primarily with local produce that he doesn’t hesitate to enhance with modern and creative twists gleaned from his own globetrotting travels.

Chef Clément Guyon is back in his hometown after a culinary odyssey that took him around France (notably Flocons de Sel in Megève) and abroad (Atelier Crenn in San Francisco). The timber of the façade and terrace are echoed in the restaurant's pared-back interior. The menu varies depending on the time of day: at lunchtime, bistronomic-style fare and a more high-flying slant come the evening, starring local and seasonal ingredients – served in a buzzy, bantering atmosphere.

In the heart of the town, almost within shouting distance of the castle, this small modern bistro, which sports a workshop vibe of wood and metal, is the brainchild of chef Adrien Barrier, who was born in Évron and knows Mayenne inside out. After stints with Yannick Alléno and Philippe Mille, this gifted craftsman curates feel-good, flavoursome food that hits the spot every time, be it his white asparagus with haddock, houmous and hazelnut crumble or the confit of pork belly, pressed aubergine and pork jus.

The name may suggest an antique dealer's, but despite the absence of old tomes, 19C paintings and 1930s objets d'art, you won't be disappointed! Set outside of the town centre, L'Antiquaire is a very pleasant and welcoming restaurant, with a façade completely smothered by foliage. Chef Jérôme Lebreton's generous cuisine with flashes of creativity is sure to delight the palate with its distinctive flavours, not least his combination of veal sweetbreads and kumquats. Worth noting: There is a completely vegetarian set menu.

This restaurant with a bright, contemporary decor delivers the goods when it promises a warm welcome. Chef Gaëtan Crespin works with excellent seasonal produce, most sourced locally, to craft creative and technically on-point cuisine. A shining example comes in the form of his scallops, endive and clementine, or roast veal, parsnips and shiitake… And with excellent value for money guaranteed, it was love at first bite!

This restaurant is housed in a 16C building on a cobbled street in the town centre. The decor is chock-a-block with charming details: a large fireplace, stone window frames, exposed beams and colossal wooden branches from which the light fixtures hang. Your discreet hostess (who is also the pastry chef) and the chef, who can be seen fully focused and hard at work in the open kitchen, extend a smiling welcome to their guests. The seasons dictate the menu and the lunchtime lineup is a steal.