Wilton Hotel Bray

This iconic restaurant has been thriving since 1981, thanks to both the eponymous chef and the exceptional team he has around him. It sits hidden away within a Georgian townhouse and oozes sumptuousness and sophistication thanks to features such as a gilt barrel ceiling and hand-crafted marquetry. The accomplished cooking isn’t to be upstaged, however: it is French at heart yet has a restrained modernity and showcases some bold yet superbly balanced flavours. The Irish ingredients are certainly luxurious and the baba flambé with your choice of rum provides an inviting, classical way to finish.

A welcome addition to this residential seaside town just south of Dublin, Caladh sits inside a double-fronted Georgian property painted in a fresh light green colour that permeates inside, giving a cool, calming vibe to the brasserie-style dining room. The chefs aren’t trying to reinvent the wheel here, and therein lies the appeal. Classic dishes like confit duck leg and grilled pork chop are ingredient-led and lean on the abundant natural flavours of the produce. A sensibly priced wine list adds to the already considerable attraction.

An elegant, intimate establishment with bold décor and an unusual shopping centre location, this long-standing Indian restaurant continues to deliver eminently satisfying dishes to the residents of its lovely seaside town. There are clearly skill and experience aplenty in the kitchen, evident everywhere from the plump tandoori prawns to the superior naan from a proper tandoor oven. The kulfis for dessert are not to be missed either, with a terrific creamy texture and well-balanced flavours. Chatty, engaging service enhances the appeal.

Close to the canal in the Dublin suburbs sits this airy, glass-fronted restaurant run by husband-and-wife team John and Sandy Wyer. There's a minimalist, casual elegance to the place, with the cosiest tables those in front of the open kitchen. Go for the full tasting menu to experience as much of John's mature, controlled cooking as possible. Dishes are free of overcomplication and put the emphasis firmly on the superb ingredients, such as glisteningly fresh cod with an original celeriac beurre blanc. The efficient service comes from a friendly team.

This vibrant little restaurant with a lively spirit features an open kitchen in which you’ll find the chefs crafting their modern set menu around top-class Irish produce at the height of its season. This is cooking that comes from the heart, with the stripped-back dishes allowing each main ingredient to shine next to a few bold and beautifully judged accompaniments – such as butter-poached cod with an intense shellfish bisque or Anjou pigeon with a potent madeira jus. Start with an aperitif while you enjoy the delicate snacks.

When you browse a menu and see words like ‘pâté’, ‘rillettes’, ‘vin jaune’ and ‘au poivre’, you know you’re in for a thoroughly French treat. The surprise at Forêt is that these Francophone delights are found above the M. O’Brien’s pub – which couldn’t sound more Irish if it tried. Nevertheless, thanks to the team behind Forest Avenue next door, here you have a delicious slice of France, with every authentic dish combining top-quality produce and skilled execution to flavour-packed effect. The tomato tart with piperade is a prime example, simply bursting with umami.

Despite its discreet exterior, you'll be able to spot this charmingly run neighbourhood gem thanks to the warm glow of its red neon sign. Inside, the restaurant has an intimate, relaxing feel, with the exposed brick walls and red leather banquettes bathed in soft light, while smooth jazz plays in the background. To feel the buzz of the kitchen, sit downstairs, while the first floor is ideal for larger groups. The seasonally changing menu offers boldly flavoured dishes showcasing some interesting flavour combinations, like wild sea bass with prawn Bourguignon, bisque and capers.