GRAND HOTEL du LAC Hanoi

Now with a two-storey expansion and lush courtyard, English-speaking staff and a photo menu, this vintage tea house is more tourist-friendly. It retains its North Vietnamese charm with antique decor, artwork and a rustic elegance, and continues to impart the essence of Vietnamese cuisine. Highlights include chả ốc (ham with periwinkle snails) served with herbs, vegetables, vermicelli and fish sauce, and the subtle crab soup with malabar spinach in a clear broth.

One of three branches in Hanoi, this small phở eatery enjoys a fine reputation, but beware of imitations in the city. The menu offers 10 impressive phở options, including tái and chin (brisket), nạm (flank beef) and bắp trần (beef fillet). A competent team operates the compact corner kitchen, which is visible through a glazed partition. The phở itself is hearty and supremely refreshing with tender pieces of beef that melt in the mouth.

At nearly 40 years old, this gem in Hanoi’s Old Quarter is popular for its array of eel dishes — cold or stir-fried, served with vermicelli in soup, as well as in congee and spring rolls. In winter, a steaming bowl of vermicelli with crisp, shredded eel is hard to beat; in summer, a refreshing salad is a must-try.

Gia đình, meaning "family", is a reference to chef Sam Tran and partner Long Tran's longing for their homeland during their years working abroad. The restaurant decor draws inspiration from the Temple of Literature just across the road. A single tasting menu is offered, showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients and drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of traditional Vietnamese cuisine. Deceptively complex, the beautifully crafted dishes showcase well-judged combinations of subtle flavours, with acidity and texture playing prominent roles.

Established in 2009 and named after its founder, Nguyệt, this chicken phở specialist draws a loyal crowd of locals and visitors. The recently renovated space is cleaner and more comfortable, and the blue-and-white façade makes it easy to find. Choose from various chicken cuts, with the tender thigh especially good in both soup and dry noodles. Open until midnight, it is a popular late-night spot.

Located near Hàng Hòm Street, this no-frills chicken phở eatery has earned loyal fans with its rich, satisfying bowls. Native fowl is gently simmered to retain a chewy tenderness, and paired with rice noodles, herbs and steaming hot broth. Xôi gà – sticky rice with chicken and extras like egg or gizzards – is also popular and often sells out early. Always buzzing, from morning to midnight, this is one of Hanoi's long-standing specialists in chicken phở.

Many restaurants in Vietnam focus on a concise menu starring one key ingredient. In this 40-plus-year-old shop, the menu revolves around eel as in eel noodles, eel congee and eel soup. For the noodles, they use rice vermicelli which is made into noodle soup, or tossed with deep-fried shredded eel, herbs, toasted peanuts and shallots. Shredded pork sausage and shiitake mushrooms are added to the soup and congee to further boost the umami.