GreenTree Inn Beijing Beiqijia Litang Road Express Hotel

Instead of typical Shandong classics, the chef, who hails from the province, champions a menu starring seafood that is shipped from Weihai port daily. The crisp and tangy Laizhou Bay "penis fish" salad on a bed of ice plant tantalises the taste buds. The donkey soup with Solomon's seal and black garlic, slow cooked for over 10 hours, delivers meaty sweetness and a gelatinous texture from the donkey hide, in a space that exudes traditional elegance.

Via the grand entrance with a retro vibe, diners are escorted into a lofty dining room on level 2. Painstakingly crafted Beijing classics define the extensive menu, much of which dates back to the Qing Dynasty. The crispy duo blanched in oil manifests expert judgment of heat – pork tripe and chicken gizzards are both perfectly cooked. Thinly sliced smoked pork head meat is buttery and smoky. Round off with artisan desserts, like rose puff pastry or split pea cake.

Although the entrance is tucked away in an alley, it's hard to miss the giant dumpling held in a pair of chopsticks sticking out of the wall. Through a window, diners can see the chefs making dumplings with house-made wrapping. Those filled with seafood from Jiaodong Peninsula are the most popular – try the Spanish mackerel and chive dumplings packed with juicy, tender filling. Other seasonal fillings include kelp, dried shrimps and shepherd's purse.

For almost 20 years, diners have been flocking here for authentic Hunanese fare. Head of organic bighead carp is traditionally steamed with heaps of chopped chillies, but you can also opt for the variation that uses two kinds of chillies, or have it braised with perilla leaves. Soft and umami-laden, the fried duck in Yongzhou style is perfumed in litsea oil. Snacks like stinky tofu and mugwort dumplings are also popular. Expect to queue at mealtimes.

With signage inscribed by the younger brother of Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, circa 1921, this state-owned restaurant is a real treasure. Dark wood is a prominent decorative feature, while red tablecloths lend it a rustic, classic vibe. Since 1997, diners have been coming to the current location to enjoy its authentic, no-frills Huaiyang cooking, with dishes like scorched eel with garlic and soy. Only private rooms can be booked ahead.

Chinese

With stints in top establishments, the executive chef from Guangdong leads the kitchen team as it rolls out a lineup of Cantonese classics. Items like double-boiled soup and Cantonese barbecue need pre-ordering. Dried tangerine peel is a recurring theme on the menu – try deep-fried pork spareribs with Xinhui dried tangerine peel for rounded citrus warmth. Whelk slices and fish maw soup, slow-cooked for six hours, seduces with depth and umami.