Ryujin Onsen Marui Ryokan

The restaurant shares a site occupied by a sake brewery since the days of the shoguns. A black counter reflects the Japanese interior of this refurbished traditional house. Locally grown and raised ingredients are the star of the cuisine, with Nara-style pickled vegetables, Yamato beef and vegetables all expressing the terroir of Nara. Akitsuho rice, used in sake brewing, makes an appearance in prix fixe offerings, transformed into rice dishes such as paella and risotto. Sake pairings from the unique expertise of a sake brewer are another reason to visit.

A peaceful, traditional rural house surrounded by farmland is home to this restaurant. The shop is an advertisement for the good earth of Asuka, ‘the place where Japan began’, and its bounty. Main ingredients consist of produce cultivated by the chef’s family. One item, a brightly colourful salad, is named “Daichi Kara”, “From the Land”. Wheat is turned into pasta, rice into risotto. Set menus are a journey through the seasons, calculated to inspire gratitude to nature as one proceeds through the meal.

Sushi Kawashima pursues its own way in the sushi world, a route that crosses paths with the food culture of Nara. Sashimi is dressed with hishio, a koji-mould and salt-water mixture said to be the origin of soy sauce. Snacks are served with preserved so, a condensed-milk product enjoyed in ancient Japan. Yamato tachibana pepper is a seasoning made from an ancient citrus fruit. Sushi of gizzard shad with persimmon leaf testifies to the chef’s lively imagination. Nigirizushi is formed without wasabi, to bring out the flavours of the topping and sushi rice. Persimmon-leaf tea is a relaxing treat

The chef prizes his relations with food producers; the better to express the appeal of each region’s topography. Lega’ means ‘bind’ or ‘connect’: the restaurant binds together the food cultures of Italy and Nara and puts diners in touch with the thoughts of food producers. Sushi of uncured ham and persimmon leaf, venison senbei—a dish resembling Nara’s famous deer crackers—and other unique items overlay one tradition onto another. The chef honed his skills in Italy’s Piemonte region, which is why he devotes himself to making hand-rolled pastas such as tajarin and agnolotti in autumn and winter

The interior of the old traditional house is refurbished, yet the Showa-era ambience is unmistakable. The chef cooks alone, dedicated to his credo of serving everything straight from the kitchen to the table. What impresses most are the vegetables. Each plate features leaf and root vegetables grown under the personal care of the chef’s father, a landscape architect. The chef uses restrained seasoning to bring out the flavours of the ingredients. Takikomi-gohan made with vegetables picked that morning is served with house-made pickles. Simple, honest cooking, done as only Morimoto can.

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.