Belvilla Chiangmai near Lanna Hospital

Chawee, named after the chef-owner's grandmother, offers an intimate, personalised dining experience, as Thai music plays softly in the inviting space with sage-green walls and vintage touches. Dishes draw on childhood memories or old recipes, in a menu that changes monthly, depending on the season and availability of local ingredients. With fragrant lychee and coconut in a harmonious mix, the spicy lychee salad refreshes the palate with its natural sweet-and-sour balance.

Soontaree Vechanont doesn’t just own “Soontaree’s House” – the singer also performs here nightly. Set on the Ping River in an open-air, Lanna-style building with more tables outside, this charming restaurant can accommodate up to 350 guests. Among the Northern Thai cooking they serve is their signature boneless murrel fish stuffed with pork. It’s a creative dish, with the well-seasoned sausage proving suitably fragrant and spicy.

This shop serves the famous Khao Soi, featuring rich and slightly spicy curry notes. You can choose your preferred meat toppings, and the portions are so delicate that you might find yourself wanting another round!

With just four large communal tables, Magnolia Café is a simple, cosy spot enlivened by bold colours, vintage décor, and chandeliers. The owner-chef’s exquisite personal collection is on display, and she pays meticulous attention to sourcing high-quality ingredients, some from overseas. Their à la carte menu offers tasty, well presented fare from across Thailand. Dishes are distinguished by vivid, gutsy flavours; fried sun-dried squid with peanut sauce and fresh watermelon with desiccated salmon are exemplars. A complimentary pandan pudding is offered, making for a sweet and satisfying finish.

Tucked away in a quiet alley, this wooden Lanna-style restaurant has been around for over a decade. It stands in a garden and has open-air and indoor tables, plus private pavilions. The menu showcases the gamut of Northern Thai cuisine, from fiery dips to herby soups. Two recommendations are the spicy galangal dip with steamed mushrooms for its sweetness and aroma, and the spicy vegetable soup with serpent-head fish: fragrant, earthy and perfectly balanced.

For decades, this spot has been drawing in loyal fans with its tue ka ko – crispy deep-fried taro with sweet chilli sauce and peanuts. Light, fresh and never greasy, each batch is made to order. The fried tofu is also worth trying. Open only until they sell out, so come early.

Having recently relocated to this ground floor eatery under a residential apartment, Talung is simply decorated with air conditioning, a lively bar and serves Southern Thai. It’s a small family business, the staff are friendly and attentive, and help each other from kitchen to table. The stir-fried squid with squid ink has a rich, well-seasoned sauce and herbal scent. The stir-fried prawns come with a homemade southern Thai shrimp paste and young bitter beans.