Maison Saint James

In the heart of the Domaine du Colombier, the Bistrot is depicted by spot-on cooking that blends modernity with tradition courtesy of premium regional produce. Tartare of Ardèche trout, poultry tournedos with Nyons olives or crème brûlée infused in vanilla-tonka bean: a lineup of well-crafted dishes that celebrates the South. Modern interior, glazed wine cellar and a patio overlooking the countryside. Peace and quiet just a few miles outside town.

On the legendary road that is the Nationale 7, this place has struck on a winning formula. Le Moderne, with its name and decor that call to mind the 1950s, has not aged a day. An appealing restaurant complete with a delicatessen and wine shop, it certainly has the feel-good factor. Marion (in the kitchen) and Ben Franze (front of house) put a smile on our faces with their delicious seasonal cuisine that has met with well-deserved success: escargot cromesquis and poultry jus; Charolais beef sirloin cooked two ways, fried panisse and chimichurri sauce. In fine weather, head for the terrace.

This peaceful 16C château, restored to the highest standards, is the quintessence of Drôme provençale. From the terrace overlooking the grounds and lavender fields or in the cosy dining room with its vaulted ceiling and a fire crackling in the hearth, get ready to embark on a poetic culinary voyage inspired by regional delicacies. Each dish is carefully thought out and crafted to allow the ingredients to shout their name. Delightful welcome. Book one of the lovely rooms and stay longer.

Nestling at the foot of a château that is famous for having welcomed Madame de Sévigné as a regular patron, this restaurant is the perfect embodiment of Provence's twin traditions of hospitality and good food: olive oil from Nyons, guinea fowl and diced vegetables from the Drôme are judiciously showcased by chef Benjamin Reilhes in the form of three tasting menus comprising several courses. One of the set menus draws entirely on plants. This restaurant is an ode to the Mediterranean's fine ingredients and Rhône Valley wines. Pastry chef Cédric Perret, meanwhile, creates desserts in harmony wit

Epona, Gallic goddess of travellers and abundance, watches over this welcoming establishment, conveniently located between Valence and Montélimar in the Ardèche. In the evenings and at weekends, peruse the set menu (without options) and the short, appetising seasonal à la carte menu. Rustic and warm, as he himself defines it, the chef's cuisine is rooted in the local terroir. With real jus and pretty presentations, his dishes show a deft touch: cold courgette velouté and gravlax salmon; confit pork belly and seasonal vegetables. At lunchtime, a daily menu only is served.

In the heart of this charming medieval village in the Drôme Provençale, La Capitelle – the lovely, lilting name denotes a dry stone shelter used by shepherds and winegrowers – serves a small à la carte menu, plus a daily menu that is changed up regularly with the seasons. Traditional recipes are given a contemporary spin, and dishes are served in a pretty vaulted room with an imposing fireplace. In fine weather, the terrace commands views over the valley. They have a handful of guestrooms for overnight stays.

The second offshoot of Le Clair de la Plume, the nearby parent establishment, occupies a stunning 18C edifice set in fragrant, flower-decked gardens. Fresh, seasonal produce are the stars of the bistro lineup: homemade terrine of foie gras and Ardèche pork; poultry from the Blaches farm and, to finish, a selection of wickedly appetising home-made pastries. The spacious, covered terrace commands a matchless view of Grignan Castle in the distance and the treelined, walled garden in the foreground.