Sanfang Qixiang Shuxiang Wenru Hotel

The owner, a returnee from Australia, has worked closely with the chef to develop two tasting menus that mirror the seasons. Bearing a strong European slant, the menus star first-rate produce from around the world, occasionally featuring the local condiments for which Fuzhou is famous, such as red wine lees and laver. The owner also doubles as the sommelier – ask him to pair the food with libations from the extensive wine list.

The interior sports a tasteful green colour scheme with plant motifs and fish scale tiles for a style poised between Jiangnan and Fuzhou. In the same vein, the menu features authentic Huaiyang classics alongside Fujian produce and Minnan twists. Braised yellow croaker ‘lion’s head’ meatball impresses with rich silky texture and deep umami. Consider pre-ordering the ginger eight-treasure duck. Each of the 12 private rooms is equipped with tea serving facilities.

The owner from Xi’an couldn’t find any restaurant serving authentic cooking from his hometown, so he opened his own! The spartan room is clean and rustic. The kitchen team from Shaanxi deftly pull noodles by hand. The signature biangbiang noodle – there is only one long noodle in a bowl – is toothsome and expertly crafted. The aromatic spiced oil dressing clings nicely to the noodle, while cabbage, bean sprouts and chives provide crisp textures.

Close to scenic spots, this simple shop attracts locals and tourists alike. As its sign says, lao hua, or rice vermicelli in pork broth, is the signature dish. But their hand-pulled noodles and ribbon rice noodles are equally good. For toppings, opt for the classic combos, or customise your own: braised pork intestine and deep-fried dough stick deliver lovely textures and mop up the broth. Bone marrow dressed in scallion oil is also worth trying.

This kitchen run by Fu'an natives specialises in dishes from their home city; "167" refers to the length of the city's coastline in kilometres. Naturally, seafood from Fu'an is the main draw – look for yellow croakers, sea bass and the like in the display fridge – but other home-style favourites such as drunken pork ribs in a sweet, tangy sauce, fried rice vermicelli with lovely wok hei, and herbal soups double-boiled in urns are also popular.

This tiny shop in an alley has been around for decades. Without bells and whistles, it has earned a loyal following with its rustic traditional Fuzhou sweets. The concise menu stars a lineup of all-time favourites. Simmered in a claypot for nine hours, the peanut soup is a creamy and nutty delight. Taro paste pleasantly surprises with small chunks of starchy taro which adds to the texture. The lotus root cake and sweet sticky rice are also worth a try.

This restaurant, which doubles as an art gallery, is adorned in the owner’s art collection. In the kitchen, the young chef from Putian adds a new twist to Fujian fare. Large mactra clams, blanched in boiling chicken stock for 10 seconds by the table, impress with deep umami, perfect cooking and crisp texture. Traditional sliced conch in wine lees sauce is given a new spin, with the red vinasse exuding a unique fragrance.