LanOu Hotel Ningde Fu'an High-Speed Railway Station

For over 20 years, this shop has been a landmark of the Wuqu food scene. Since it moved to Ningde, the owner continues to craft everything in Wuqu style. Their bian rou dumplings are tossed in sauce or served in broth, boasting bouncy pork filling and paper-thin translucent skin. Dried cuttlefish and pork rib soup is packed in umami, while slippery taro noodles dressed in soy sauce and pickles seduce with savoury depth and tangy acidity.

This well-established, down-to-earth joint specialises in beef rice noodle soup - a staple for many Ningde natives. The broth exudes meaty and herbal aromas that draw in the customers. The slippery rice noodles work magically with pickled mustard greens as well as sliced beef, which retains a lovely chew. Also try their beef offal soup that features cuts like bouncy tripe and tender ox tongue. Beef meatball soup is another best-seller.

Beloved by the locals, this simple shop hidden in an alley ticks all the boxes in the way of local snacks, including Fujian’s take on wonton known as bian rou, either served in a sour and spicy broth with laver and pork cracklings, or deep-fried until crispy. House-made xiaolongbao is steamed to order, stuffed with pork and is rich in mushroom and scallion aromas. Marinated pork diaphragm boasts a meaty flavour and chewy texture.

Despite a somewhat dated interior, this shop, founded in the 1990s, remains a hit courtesy of its fish ball soup: fish is deboned, pounded and hand-squeezed into pristine globes before being stuffed with savoury pork filling. The broth is loaded with umami thanks to dried seafood. For a more filling meal, order velvety glass noodles and bouncy pork intestine on top, or their pan-fried buns. Come early as some items tend to sell out.

The owner, a returnee from Australia, has worked closely with the chef to develop two tasting menus that mirror the seasons. Bearing a strong European slant, the menus star first-rate produce from around the world, occasionally featuring the local condiments for which Fuzhou is famous, such as red wine lees and laver. The owner also doubles as the sommelier – ask him to pair the food with libations from the extensive wine list.

The interior sports a tasteful green colour scheme with plant motifs and fish scale tiles for a style poised between Jiangnan and Fuzhou. In the same vein, the menu features authentic Huaiyang classics alongside Fujian produce and Minnan twists. Braised yellow croaker ‘lion’s head’ meatball impresses with rich silky texture and deep umami. Consider pre-ordering the ginger eight-treasure duck. Each of the 12 private rooms is equipped with tea serving facilities.

The restaurant is located in a historic area where many famous scholars lived during the North Song Dynasty. The interior sports original architectural details, while the menu pays homage to traditional Fujian food culture. The head chef has been cooking professionally for over 30 years; his sliced conch in red vinasse sauce accentuates the briny-sweet taste of the sea snail. Hand-pounded rice cake is the perfect companion to any seafood dish.