Domaine des Gueules Cassées

In the heart of Toulon, opposite the bronze statue Génie de la Navigation and in the shadow of the Frontale du Port (the 1950s listed buildings by Jean de Mailly that divide opinion), is chef Romain Janin's bistro. The menu celebrates the food culture of Provence, putting a twist on fresh local ingredients: Tamaris mussels au gratin; wild prawn ravioli; egg mayonnaise with summer truffles; courgette flower fritters; lamb shoulder confit; textures of beef tongue. Each plate is brimming with generosity and suggests savoir-faire to spare. The atmosphere here is relaxed and friendly, with service

Just a stone's throw from the harbour, this unassuming eatery is a resounding success thanks to the chef’s tasty, delicate Mediterranean cooking. Courgette flowers stuffed with a creamy, herby emulsion; sardines marinated in finger lime; gribiche-style stuffed veal parcels; ravioles of Tamaris mussels in basil with an aioli emulsion. Everything is made from scratch, including the bread. Cheerful and professional welcome from the hostess. Given its success, bookings are essential!

In this cobbled street of Toulon's old town, where the terrace is smoke-free from May to October, you can tuck into delicious "cuisine de producteurs" (as the chef calls his cooking). A champion of local produce and the terroir, he concocts good seasonal dishes with a fondness for vegetables – to wash down with natural and organic tipples: ravioli, burratina and a poultry jus with chanterelles; thin slices of Aveyron pork, potato gratin with Le Beausset saffron and organic vegetables from Provence; roast Solliès figs and arlette biscuit.

Beaming and buzzing! The kitchens of the Télégraphe, a high spot of Toulon’s cultural life, are all go! Energetic Arnaud Tabarec, born in Burgundy, honed his skills in prestigious establishments and was the star chef of the Five Hotel’s Roof in Cannes. Today he is acclaimed for his delicate, predominantly vegetarian cuisine, whose ingredients are of course sourced locally and combined boldly.

Here in the Old Town, a chef from Milan who settled in France many years ago serves "gastronomie de rue" (elevated street food) – a fusion of Latin American, North African and Asian flavours. Francesco's colourful dishes are packed with spice: cod, smoked garlic cream, cockles and chorizo; beef consommé and carpaccio, noodles and fresh herbs. Good value for money means that customers keep coming back. Booking required.

Sesame salmon tataki with a crunchy vegetable salad; turbot fillet, pan-fried chanterelles and a black garlic jus. With their generous, seriously Provençal cuisine, Pascal and Nadège Bonamy have elevated their restaurant at the foot of the Maurettes mountains to one of the best in the region.