Great Blue Heron Hotel

It may be connected to the Canadian Japanese Cultural Center, but it’s not until you walk through the labyrinthine passages of this restaurant that you feel you’ve been transported to Japan. This is the opposite of see-and-be-seen culture, as guests dine in fully private rooms for maximum intimacy. The serene setting matches Chef Masaki Hashimoto's traditional kaiseki, which celebrates the seasons with subtlety and refinement. From beautiful soups with kinmedai and sweet rice to simmered bamboo shoots with shima-aji, expect balance, purity and reward. Dinner often concludes with grilled Miyaza

Sit at the beautiful hinoki counter opposite the personable Chef/owner Jackie Lin and you can expect a masterclass in Edomae sushi. He and his team offer an introduction omakase for first timers and, for those with bigger appetites and bigger budgets, a longer, more personalized menu. The results are impressive either way and feature seasonal treasures like firefly squid and murasaki uni. The nigiri is a well-judged array of progressively stronger toppings, from silvery kohada to mouth-filling anago. Rice is a blend of two types and retains its natural color, with the acidity judged perfectly

Unlike the quiet ceremony of a sushi omakase or the formal structure of a kaiseki, this freewheeling tasting is driven solely by Chef Takeshi Sato, who swims in familiar culinary waters on his own terms. To be clear, this counter situated along the entire open kitchen is no Zen temple. The room is a constant blur of motion thanks to a young team that hurries about preparing multiple courses at once. Sato is their seasoned guide, as he moves with intention, ever masterful with a knife, and works with an impressive bounty of ingredients, most of which are flown in from Japan. Soulful dashi broth

It seems nearly impossible to have a bad time at Chef Rob Rossi’s Italian stunner. Flickering candlelight bounces off cream-colored walls and blond-oak tables running down the length of this restaurant that feels, at all times, totally under control thanks to a suave staff. And whereas many Italian menus can look the same, Rossi narrows in on the seafood-rich traditions of Liguria. A superbly light vitello tonnato and a piping hot Ligurian flatbread stuffed with stracchino offer promising starts. There must be pasta, like wild snow crab tagliolini with smoked bottarga, and there must be tirami

Note: Temporarily closedThe air is charged, and as you descend underneath Yorkville, you sense that your evening is headed somewhere interesting. Minimalist in design, Aburi Hana saves the drama for the plates, using handmade Arita pottery that has a history tracing back to the 1600s.Chef Ryusuke Nakagawa presents a modern take on the history-steeped Kyō-Kaiseki menu. His cooking is personal and intricate, weaving multiple techniques and colors into every dish. The signature maguro flower, a rose made from pieces of akami and chutoro, is stunning, as is the duck breast meatball with foie gras,

Even if you lived next door, omakase with Chef Masaki Saito would still feel like a faraway adventure. The foyer's marble staircase, a 200-year-old hinoki counter and traditional Japanese paneling and woodwork set the stage as he slices, scores and sauces the great treasures of the sea. For a serious sum, you will find Botan shrimp with uni sauce and hanaho, and eat melting slices of toro burried under a blizzard of white truffles. Fish comes exclusively from Japan, and for the nigiri, he uses a prized varietal from Niigata prefecture, warm and tinged with his special blend of aged vinegars. L

With influences and techniques ranging from the Nordics to Nihon, Enigma certainly lives up to its name. Dishes are delicate, poised and detailed creations. Fortunately, the flavors are always complementary, as seen in dishes like Atlantic halibut with sunchoke cream and PEI mussels, and 24-day-cured trout with a delicate citrus beurre blanc. Desserts, like raspberry and yuzu with puff pastry, are often the highlight. The wine pairings are also thoughtfully composed.