Le Chai

While regional delicacies remain firm fixtures on the menu of this welcoming traditional establishment (in business since the 1930s), a few discreet nods to the Mexican roots of the new owner have found their way into the culinary score. Examples include crispy crackling chicharron appetisers or a smoked, spicy tomato sauce that adds a kick to a starter of thinly sliced carpaccio of stuffed duck neck, apples and mayonnaise made from Gascony mustard. Healthful, fresh, throbbing with flavour and top-drawer quality. On sunny days, the shaded alfresco patio is blissful.

Augustin Guibert, a.k.a. Guss, a chef with an impeccable track record, has gone solo in this contemporary eatery on the ground-floor of a handsome 19C stone building. This inventive cook impresses with his manifest technical skill, which allows him to play with flavours and textures, as is the case with a crunchy tartlet of velvety onions, carrots confit in their jus, calamansi gel, pesto ice cream and a cromesquis of feta and honey. Hats off to the loving care and attention lavished on the splendid local produce, particularly veggies. We warrant that each colourful dish will bring a smile to