Nakano, located in western Tokyo, serves as a vibrant transportation hub and entertainment district. Known for its bustling shopping streets, anime culture, and efficient rail connections, it offers an authentic urban experience. The area features a wide range of accommodations, from luxury hotels to budget chains, providing easy access to major hubs like Shinjuku and Shibuya. It is an ideal base for travelers seeking convenience, local flavor, and connectivity within Tokyo.
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Stay near Nakano Station or Higashi-Nakano Station for optimal convenience. Nakano Station offers direct access to major shopping complexes like Nakano Broadway and excellent rail links. Higashi-Nakano provides a slightly quieter atmosphere while maintaining strong connectivity via the Chuo Line. Both areas serve as strategic bases for exploring western Tokyo.
Nakano does not have its own airport. Travelers typically fly into Narita (NRT) or Haneda (HND). From there, take the Keisei Skyliner or Limousine Bus to Tokyo or Shinjuku Station, then transfer to the JR Chuo Line for a direct ride to Nakano Station. The total journey usually takes 60-90 minutes. Within Nakano, most attractions are walkable, and the area is well-served by multiple subway and private railway lines.
Nakano Broadway is a haven for anime, manga, and retro collectibles enthusiasts. The Nakano Sunplaza hosts frequent concerts and exhibitions. At night, the Nakano-dori Shopping Street comes alive with diverse dining options and vibrant nightlife, offering a distinct contrast to the more commercialized areas of central Tokyo.
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Tucked away in a quiet residential neighbourhood, this soba shop welcomes guests only at lunchtime. The interior is done entirely in natural materials such as wood and stone, lending a homespun feel. Service is friendly and welcoming, placing the heart at ease. The menu consists solely of sobazen a set meal including fine soba noodles, appetisers, and soba-gaki. For those who prefer something sweet, the soba-gaki can be substituted with soba zenzai, a red bean soup made with the same buckwheat dough in dessert form. Quantities are limited so reservations are a must and can be made by phone fro
Reading the signs of the times, the third owner transformed this sushi restaurant, once known for its catering, into an omakase spot serving appetizers and nigiri. Despite the modern shift, traditional Edomae techniques like ageing, marinating, and curing the fish remain unchanged. The friendly chef creates a welcoming atmosphere, while his wife skilfully handles the grilled dishes. With meticulous craftsmanship and reasonable prices, it’s easy to see why this place is a local favourite.
‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.
The chef ’s aim is to create a ramen shop beloved by locals. He sources ingredients from greengrocers and butchers in Nishiogi, treasuring his interactions with local people. The distance from the train station is also a blessing, as neighbourhood schoolchildren and their families can be seen sitting shoulder-to-shoulder, happily slurping noodles. As befits the ‘Seimenjo’, or ‘noodle-maker’, in the name, his use of Japanese wheat is a selling point. In addition to standard thin noodles, he also offers flat noodles. The miso flavour is a much-anticipated treat in autumn and winter.
WebsiteThe chef devotes himself to good health through a balanced diet, using Chinese medicines as seasoning to serve food that is salutary for both mind and body. Vegetables from his native Oita are grown by natural methods, making them gentle to the constitution. At dinner, there is a wide range of à la carte dishes, leaning toward Sichuan and Shanghai influences. The chef allows himself an individual take with the mapo tofu: drawing on a wealth of experience, he offers a choice of Sichuan, aged doubanjiang (Chinese broad bean chili paste) and salt. Lunchtime set menus are also popular.
The soup accentuates the umami of the meats with the flavour of dried sardines; if you’re looking for soup with a unique and beguiling taste, you’ve found it here. Chashumen, ramen topped with roasted pork, is so covered in pork slices that they hide the noodles. Rice is available as an extra with the ramen, so try placing some of the roasted pork on top of it to make chashudon, roast-pork rice. Impressive and satisfying indeed, as if to say there is ramen here.
The chef heard the call to the culinary life one day while riding his father’s motorcycle on a long tour around the Seto Inland Sea. When he happened upon a ramen shop along the way, the taste of the salty soba touched his soul. He combines a clear seafood broth with homemade noodles crafted with aroma in mind. The ceiling decoration recalls the roof of an old-time food stall, honouring how ramen culture spread in his native Hiroshima Prefecture.
The lines that form outside Tensuke at lunchtime are a part of the Koenji landscape. Inside, one voice after another calls for the ‘Egg Lunch’. Accompanying the speciality of deep-fried egg on rice, tempura items are fried in a set order. Another speciality is the performance of the chef, who tosses the eggshells in the air in poses worthy of a kabuki actor. The idea is to make the waiting time fun, too. Deep-fried eggs fill mouths with yolk and smiles.
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