THE CLOCKHOUSE, ROuGHTON

Now well into its second decade, The Gunton Arms is still an absolute joy to visit. There is an unerring simplicity to the place and an honesty to the hearty, gimmick-free and immensely flavourful cooking. Prime local meats – including from the 1,000-acre Gunton Estate deer park – form the backbone of the menu, cooked over fire in the flag-floored Elk Room, where you really feel like you're in on the action. While these cuts catch the eye, there's brilliant value to be found elsewhere on the menu, especially among offal and nose-to-tail dishes.