SHIBUYA STREAM HOTEL formerly Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel Tokyu

MONOLITH links the splendour of classic cuisine to the future. Pastry-wrapped meat symbolises this connection – the diner can choose from several types. Hewing close to time-honoured recipes, beef and lamb are dressed in a Madeira wine and truffle sauce, while pigeon is prepared in a rich salmis. Sauce is assiduously reduced and poured unstintingly, in true orthodox style. Respect for tradition and the classics, eloquently expressed through cooking.

Takuto Murota procures ingredients himself, hunting game in the mountains and growing vegetables in his home garden. Harmonious coexistence with nature is the theme of his cooking and nowhere is this conviction more evident than in his game dishes. Meat is grilled, bones and entrails made into sauces; nothing edible is wasted. Venison blood macarons have become emblematic of LATURE. Classic cuisine with a touch of modern sensibility conveys respect for life.

The name is French: saucer used as a verb, to pour sauce or to drizzle sauce on bread. The standard fare is what the chef terms ‘saucer’: freshly baked bread on one plate and a sauce on the other. Consommé drawn over a period of three days is a key ingredient. Morel mushrooms in spring and sweetfish in summer impart seasonal flavours. As an apprentice, the chef was appointed saucier, sauce master; his confidence shines in his work today.

The appetiser is a seafood charcuterie: squid and mussels dressed in aioli, finely minced raw horse mackerel, and dried chub mackerel. Be sure to try the speciality, bouillabaisse with a rich seafood flavour, and mix it rice with the leftover soup to make risotto. This is a bistro for enjoying seafood to your heart’s content, although the mains include meat dishes as well.

Shinobu Namae welcomes guests in the spirit of ‘ichiza-konryu’, the philosophy that a restaurant is built on connections among chefs, staff, guests and food producers. The gastronomy and culture of Japan are here expressed through prix fixe menus. After the aperitif, the steaming hot risotto arrives―its inspiration drawn from the freshly cooked rice in 'chakaiseki' and brimming with the seasonal bounty of both mountain and sea. ‘Artisanal Vegetables’, the signature dish, is an homage to farmers. Weak matcha tea, borrowed from the etiquette of the Sowa tea ceremony, signals the meal’s end.

Kaoru Aihara is a veteran of fish cuisine with an inquiring mind. Depending on the fish, he may break apart the fibres, transform the fish oils, add umami or increase complexity even to the aroma. His ‘Charcuterie of the Sea’ appetiser explores the possibilities of fish through French culinary technique. Immerse yourself in the story of fish through the geography of Japan, a land surrounded by ocean.

Standing alone in his kitchen, Tomofumi Saito engages with Italian cuisine in earnest. His attention to detail is relentless, from the cuisine itself to the music, flowers and other elements. Seating is limited to ensure each dish gets his undivided attention. When he creates new menu items, there are no prototypes: he pushes himself hard to create inventive cuisine found nowhere else. 'Prisma' means 'prism' in Italian and the high standards Saito demands of himself shine in a rainbow of culinary inventiveness.