chez Nathalie et Etienne

(Temporarily closed) Julie and Sébastien Bonnet have settled in a pretty country village a few kilometres from Crest, their previous haunt. In an edifice dear to Sébastien’s heart (it was formerly the Demeure de Grane, a local institution where he carried out his apprenticeship), he enthusiastically demonstrates that both his talents and his seasonal fare, equally poised between surf and turf produce, are as enticing as ever. His spot-on, sophisticated, occasionally playful dishes are served in two cosily contemporary dining rooms. The splendid wine list, with Rhône wines in a prominent positi

The first thing to mention about Maison Pic (in the Drôme département of southeast France) is its special atmosphere. An artfully lit room designed to cast light on the dishes, floral creations, a thick carpet that muffles the steps of a front-of-house team dressed in classic attire. Here, they serve food the old-fashioned way, on a porcelain plate under a cloche. The lofty culinary obsessions of a chef who has been dubbed "the tightrope walker of flavours" – adulation of Japan, original presentations – make themselves felt in the dishes. Anne-Sophie Pic now serves a single set menu with seven

(Temporarily closed) Len'K is the bistronomic wing of the Bonnet establishment. Seated on the terrace shaded by plane trees or in the dining room, diners are in for a treat as they tuck into guinea fowl and olive terrine, or stuffed red mullet paired with a velvety shellfish emulsion. Laid-back service.

Chef Maxime Szczepaniak, who switched from construction to cooking, taught himself the trade during lockdown and then went on to hone his skills in prestigious star establishments, clearly lives life to the full. He has set up shop in a listed stone house in the centre of the village, whose pared-down interior with exposed stone walls and polished concrete floors also hosts exhibitions by local artists. First and foremost, however, it is the setting for vibrant cuisine, whose surprise menu zooms in on local produce: stuffed courgette flowers, pike-perch and asparagus, lake trout with watercres

Between the départements of Drôme and Ardèche, this restaurant named after Roman senator Alethius has a distinctly Provençal air about it. The villa is arranged around a square courtyard, a gorgeous verdant patio where you can dine in fine weather. After working for Jean-Michel Lorain at La Côte Saint-Jacques, Olivier Samin occupied the post of sous-chef for Anne-Sophie Pic for a long time. He delivers fresh cuisine that reflects the seasons and market availability (eg regional fruit and vegetables, escargots from Helix Eyrieux, local cheeses), and he also has a tremendous sense of balance: pr

In the heart of historic Valence, Flaveurs has become Épithèque. In a colourful setting, depicted by a carpeted floor and chestnut wood tables, Baptiste Poinot aims to create closer ties with his diners and can often be found in the dining room. Influenced by his delicatessen grandfather, Poinot studied at Vienne Hospitality School, before learning the ropes with Michel Chabran, Anne-Sophie Pic and Joël Robuchon. This sensitive chef, who seeks above all to convey an emotion, crafts food that bears witness to the careful thought, excellent produce and consummate skill behind each dish.

In the lower part of Valence, this hidden gem is the contemporary lair of Japanese chef Masashi Ijichi. He crafts a fine, delicate repertory, underscored by a succulent encounter between the Drôme region and inspired flashes of Asia. A few examples: pumpkin soup with sea urchin, avocado and prawn toast and an ethereal dessert of oranges, vanilla and walnuts. Outstanding wine list including a superb selection of northern Côtes du Rhône wines.