Hordago
High up on the Lizarrieta Pass on the French-Spanish border, at the end of a remote road, this typical Basque inn has a chequered history, including – legend has it – a stint as a smugglers' den. Now, thanks to chef Rémy Le Charpentier (previously at the restaurant Arraya, also in Sare) and his partner Mikela Luro, the place is definitively on the up. Local ingredients, herbs, condiments and mushrooms (picked by the chef) make for a pretty and flavoursome fiesta in dishes pepped up by creative touches: line-caught bigeye tuna, fregola sarda salad, lemon, ginger and candied tomato. Last but not
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