海棠花旅馆

Tucked away in the Pingjiang historic quarter, this restaurant was remodelled from an ancient mansion encompassing the quintessence of classical Suzhou garden and architecture. Similarly, the season-driven menu is based heavily on Suzhou culinary traditions, enlivened by modern twists. Mantis shrimps with soft roe are dressed in fermented rice lees marinade and topped with caviar. The duck soup with ham and fox nuts presents rich flavours and deep umami.

Perched on the shore of Jinji Lake, this restaurant champions a modern take on Suzhou cuisine that shows restraint in the use of oil and seasoning. Prices are reasonable considering the scenic setting and remarkable food quality. The signature lion's head meatball soup is made with Berkshire pork, longsnout catfish and water chestnuts, delivering a bouncy texture and crunch. Reservations are only accepted for private rooms and the lakeside terrace.

A whitewashed two-storey building with a tiled roof is home to this reincarnation of a noodle stall founded in 1931. The delightfully ornate interior pays homage to traditional Chinese decor. Suzhou noodles are either served in a soy-based or clear broth, or tossed in sauces. There are tens of toppings to choose from – if in doubt, go for any of the popular combinations. The shrimp trio with shrimps, their roe and tomalley is too good to be missed.

This restaurant in a conveniently located shopping mall serves modern Chaozhou dishes alongside live seafood from Guangdong and Cantonese barbecue dishes grilled in-house. The angled luffa with Chaozhou beef balls, fish balls and pork sausage has a bouncy texture and the sweetness of cucumber. The sachima with olive kernels is an exclusive sweet with fluffy egg-fried batter bits. The set menus are great value. Booking recommended at peak times.

With a red façade and a cheeky sculpture of a ‘squirrel’ mandarin fish by its door, you cannot fail but notice A Cheng. Since 1999, it has been famous not only for fish, but also Suzhou classics like sweet and sour pork ribs – tender pork in a tangy sauce with spot-on acidity. The sautéed white assortment delivers varied textures with pork tripe, chicken, bamboo shoot and shrimps, while the peppery kick brings out the umami.

This wonton shop doubles as a cultural hub for Kunqu opera lovers – the owner is a Kunqu singer and named the shop after a character he plays in The Peony Pavillion. The room is dotted with opera photos, memorabilia and sheet music written in ancient Chinese notation. As for the score, the wontons are generously stuffed with an array of fillings, such as the signature abalone and pork variety, and served in a flavourful broth drizzled in scallion oil.

This Cantonese chef champions a fusion menu that melds Suzhou and Cantonese influences, ranging from timeless classics to painstaking heritage recipes. Nanjing-style braised goose is steeped in an aromatic marinade with over 30 types of herbs for hours. The mandarin fillet golden chrysanthemum fish is meticulously sliced and deep-fried. Everything is made to order so expect to wait. A limited number of private rooms require booking well in advance.