SH by the square hotel Kyoto Kiyamachi

In a teacher-and-student quest, Hiroshi Sasaki and his understudies vie to create the greatest flavours. Combining Sasaki’s wealth of experience with the youthful sensitivity of his disciples, the restaurant builds a menu that surprises and delights, suffusing classic Japanese cuisine with fresh technique and imagination. The counter becomes a theatre that brings cooks and diners together, each playing their parts. The performances of ‘Sasaki Kitchen Theatre’, fun for eyes and tastebuds, have a presence that keeps the house packed night after night.

The name ‘Roan’ derives from a Zen expression meaning ‘clear and unambiguous, hiding nothing’. To ensure the complete transparency of his work at Kikunoi, Yoshiharu Murata does all his food preparation in front of guests, at the counter. The opportunity to take in the dynamic activity in the kitchen while dining sets Roan apart from the flagship restaurant, a ryotei. Chatting with chefs as you enjoy dishes fresh from the kitchen is one of the pleasures of the kappo.

The cobblestone street where the Kaburenjo Theatre of traditional dance is located is lined with teahouses and geisha houses, lending the quarter a distinctive air of elegance. Here in the crossroads of performing art and that is Miyagawacho, the restaurant seems at first glance to break the mould. Yet the inclusion of familiar beef cutlet in the procession of less conventional fare feels somehow nostalgic. Cuisine unbound by convention and the handiwork of the reliable chef delight the spirit.

Situated on the south side of Kennin-ji Temple, the restaurant looks out on Yasaka Pagoda. Pass through the elegant gate, have a seat in the waiting area, and relax in the courtyard cooled with sprinkled water. The proprietor welcomes guests with the four-fold etiquette of the wabi-cha school of tea ceremony: harmony, respect, purity and tranquillity. In cuisine, he prizes the five unseen senses, with care paid to light, sound, temperature, fragrance and taste. Even the water is steeped in history, tradition and the four seasons. Unseen yet deep and strong are the roots of Kyoto culture here.

As an apprentice, while honing his skills in simmering and cooking, the chef discovered a love for grilling. The delicious taste of char-grilled boar impressed him and sparked his curiosity. Placing his grill at the centre of his kitchen, he hung out his shingle as a char-grill kappo. The bounty of mountain and ocean are roasted and slipped into the soup and dressed vegetables. Guests can choose between grilled fish or beef; game is also available in winter. Artful manipulation of the flame wreathes each item in the aroma of charcoal smoke.

‘Strive for simplicity, elevated by technique’ is the chef’s credo. Prizing seasonal flavours above all, he visits production areas the length and breadth of Japan. At first glance, the food arrangements and serving-ware appear ordinary, but each detail reveals the meaning of Japanese cuisine and patiently cultivated skill. Experience the graceful culture and hospitality of the tea ceremony, learned at a long-established ryokan, in a counter dining setting.

Seasonal notes and playfulness abound in the menu. Simple preparations etch themselves in the memory. During the Gion Festival, SEN displays a replica of the Naginata Boko, the first float in the festival’s parade, reflecting the city’s traditional events and customs. At the close of the meal, choose from an assortment of comfort foods such as mackerel sushi, chazuke and ramen. The chef learned to ‘read the room’ as an apprentice and is known to change ingredients and preparation styles based on guests’ conversation. The spirit of graceful service, expressed in cooking.