东横INN 东京品川旗头台南口

The shop takes such pride in the quality of its pork—Mochibuta, a domestic pork known for its tender meat and light, clean-flavoured fat—that the brand is in the name of the restaurant. Pork is deep-fried in vegetable oil, on a low flame at a leisurely pace, for a light texture. The chef is a study in undivided concentration as he hovers over his pots. Tonjiru pork soup is generously full of ingredients. The location is next to Musashikoyama Shopping Street, famed for its long arcade. Reservations are accepted for evenings.

The name comes from Shuzo Kishida’s passion for discovering the true essence of French cuisine. The chef pursues his quest through three processes: ingredients, flame and seasoning. For Kishida, ‘ingredients’ means deep respect for food producers, common to all aspects of cooking; ‘flame’ means flame-handling that is finely attuned to the fish or meat at hand; and ‘seasoning’ is flavouring that is tailored to each ingredient. The soul of cooking lies in this trinity. The white spaces on the menu leave space for your imagination.

Northern Europe and Japan share comparable climates and have cultivated similar lore in fermentation. Building on his experience in Denmark, the chef cross-fertilised the fermentation cultures of the two countries to create a cuisine bursting with originality. The item simply labelled ‘Tsukemono’ or ‘Pickles’ is a traditional element of Japanese cuisine. Mackerel marinated in vinegar is mated with handmade miso. Ojiya, a kind of rice gruel, derives inspiration from fermented crucian carp sushi, a hometown-cooking favourite. The theme of ‘fermentation’ harmonises avant-garde with tradition.

In pursuit of a new expression of Japanese cuisine, the restaurant brings its own inventive ideas to the table. In the sashimi platter, each variety of seafood is paired with distinct seasonings and accompaniments. Inspired by the sauces of Western cuisine, grilled beef is served with smooth vegetable purées. The house’s credo, ‘onko-tokujitsu’, embodies a spirit of warmth, compassion and sincerity. That sincerity is evident in the way the chef approaches the work.

For Joël Robuchon, ‘emperor of French cuisine’, this eponymous restaurant is the jewel in the crown of the company. Kenichiro Sekiya, recipient of the prestigious Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF) and heir to both the spirit and cuisine of his famous mentor, uses Japanese ingredients to breathe new life into French gastronomy. His interpretation of Le Caviar Imperial evolves from generation to generation. Even the trolley service is the pinnacle of luxury. A table of magnificence as befits the hall of the emperor.

The name derives from an image of a Jizo, the guardian spirit who looks over children, which the chef received from a Buddhist temple. The character for ‘sushi’ is an unusual choice, harking back to the fermented fish from which modern nigirizushi originated. The chef is deeply interested in literature and the classics. As snacks were not part of a sushi shop’s menu in the days of food stalls, the chef presents the range of toppings available before starting to form his sushi. Gizzard shad is moulded in the shape of the Edo-era Katsuyama hairstyle. In a relic of traditional practice, shrimp on

The chef is experienced in the gastronomic ways of both Tokyo and Paris. Intent on reaching new heights while broadening the base of French cuisine, he opened a bistro. He showcases his talents with items baked in pie pastry. Beef simmered in red wine and potato au gratin highlight the appeal of regional cuisines. ‘Le Monde Gourmand’ translates as ‘the world of the food lover’, and as the name suggests, this is the place to sample the world of fine dining in a casual setting.