桃园威斯汀塔西度假酒店

Opened in 2000, this place has a retro and rustic feel. The chef from Kaohsiung, whose culinary career spans over 30 years, is of half Hakkanese descent and a keen advocate of Hakkanese food preservation culture: he incorporates various dried, pickled and fermented condiments into his menu. Try his steamed sea bass with the house-made pineapple sauce – pineapple and fermented soybeans are aged with liquorice and salt for three months to develop tangy depth.

This shop began as a street stall over 60 years ago. Into the third generation, the family business still attracts diners in droves with good old comfort food. Its eponymous ang gu noodles see springy and thick oil noodles tossed in aromatic scallion oil with chives and bean sprouts. Ribbon rice noodle soup is another crowd stopper. For a range of textures, try three-brother soup with taro, mushrooms, and squid ink pork balls in pork bone broth.

With brick walls and wooden beams, the space exudes a rustic cabin vibe. Friendly servers dressed in Hakkanese floral prints provide thoughtful, detail-oriented service. The chef has over 30 years of experience, and his tonic soups are especially popular. Slow cooked for 8 hours, the Shou Wu Silkie chicken soup is made from 5kg organic birds bred in Yunlin and dozens of Chinese herbs and comes with hand-made noodles to soak up the soup.

With muted green walls and a grid-pattern carpet, the space feels modern, with a hint of oriental beauty. The large menu is mostly Cantonese, and portion sizes are generous – enough for a few to share. For the signature scarlet roast goose four ways, 5kg birds from Yunlin County are grilled to perfection over longan wood and carved tableside (pre-order yours at least three days in advance). The sofa seats by the windows offer the most prized vantage point.

Wooden screens and butterfly mobiles lend the space a dynamic yet serene feel. The two head chefs contribute to the eclectic menu in different ways – one specialising in Jiangzhe and Cantonese cuisine, the other in noodles and Shaanxi fare. Try the garlicky crispy skin Silkie chicken, which is marinated for 48 hours, blanched and air-dried then deep-fried. The noodles, hand-rolled à la minute, boast bouncy texture and wheaty nuttiness.

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