祇园 - 金平旅馆

‘Strive for simplicity, elevated by technique’ is the chef’s credo. Prizing seasonal flavours above all, he visits production areas the length and breadth of Japan. At first glance, the food arrangements and serving-ware appear ordinary, but each detail reveals the meaning of Japanese cuisine and patiently cultivated skill. Experience the graceful culture and hospitality of the tea ceremony, learned at a long-established ryokan, in a counter dining setting.

Food that makes you appreciate the goodness of Japanese cuisine all over again; nothing pretentious, just a reminder of how delicious familiar flavours can be. One novel touch is that rice is cooked in a Nanbu iron pot, for results different from the usual clay one. The house aims for simple preparations that treasure the culture and techniques cultivated by previous generations. The cuisine, plated on antique tableware, evokes the idea of ‘onko-chishin’ — learning from the old to create something new.

The ambience is still, like a mountain retreat in the heart of the city. The flicker of votive lanterns casts a tenor of rustic simplicity. While he worked to polish his cooking skills, Hitoshi Ishihara also encountered Zen teachings. Inspired by the wabicha spirit of the tea ceremony, Ishihara strives to host each dinner as a single gathering, with guests and host in close communication. Generous portions reinforce the mood of celebration. ‘Mizai’ is a Zen word meaning ‘not yet here’; for Ishihara, tireless self-improvement is a never-ending journey.

Flowers are arranged, the ceremonial space is well appointed, serving vessels are carefully chosen. The tea ceremony spirit pervades Gion Maruyama’s graceful service. The Gion location is a ryotei but, in a modern touch, it also features counter seating. The chef has spent many years seeking out delicious flavours. He spells ‘oishii’ (good-tasting) the old-fashioned way, with the characters that mean ‘beautiful’ and ‘taste’, recalling the sensibilities of an older time. ‘Flavour, not seasoning’ is the chef’s credo. Devotion to Kyoto cuisine that reverberates in all senses.

Freewheeling cuisine by a chef with Japanese spirit and Western learning. Gratin of truffles and clams is reminiscent of scallop coquilles served at Western restaurants. Use of serving dishes irrespective of cuisine shows a blending of Western and Japanese styles. Lacquered wooden trays, however, change with each dish, professing a sensitivity to beauty that pervades every aspect of Shimmonzen Yonemura. Supported by a team of young workers, the cuisine of Chef Masayasu Yonemura evolves with each restaurant he opens, from Kiyacho to Yasaka to Shimmonzen.

The chef has made himself a master of old-school Japanese cuisine to take it to the next level. While respecting orthodoxy in wanmono and side dishes, he refers to French flameworking techniques for his grilled items and snacks. Masu salmon is served mi-cuit; beef is rested multiple times during grilling. The sukiya-style interior in a remodelled wooden townhouse is appointed with both antique and modern dishware. ‘Ryosho’ means ‘aspire to the heavens,’ and the sky’s the limit for the chef’s ambition and desire to better himself.

Contemporary French cuisine that welcomes influences from other culinary cultures. The chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, proclaims to the world a borderless cuisine born of his experience living in Asia. Recipes come straight from the flagship restaurant in New York. Spices and herbs accentuate the aroma; the tartness of citrus brings a light note. In the warmer months when the terrace is open, the tables beside the Shirakawa River, with their views of Kyoto scenery, fill up fast.