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This proudly run, welcoming bistro is set in the heart of Ireland's oldest city and occupies a building dating back to the 15th century. The ground-floor room boasts a lovely barrel-fronted bar, while the vaulted brick cellar has an intimate feel. The modern, sensibly priced dishes come with a degree of complexity, but the biggest strength lies in the natural flavours of the fine Irish produce. Fresh, snow-white hake is a perfect example, delicious on its own but enhanced nevertheless by piquant salsa verde and top-quality mash.

It's no wonder this place is so popular: it's in a beautiful rural location; the cooking offers great value for money; and the cheery owners run their restaurant with an infectious bonhomie. Situated inside an attractive house down a little country lane, there are surrounding gardens which provide vegetables for many of the dishes, while the chef's father fishes off Hook Head and provides much of the produce for the seafood-leaning menu – crab and lobster are a particular feature. Homely bedrooms come with hot water bottles and home-baked cookies.

What was formerly known as The Old Couch Café has been reborn as Mara, retaining its predecessor's quirky vibe and bijou space. Chef-Owner Luis Martin has both passion and ambition in abundance, largely working alone in the kitchen and serving his dishes in the cosy, well-lit room to just six tables. His well-balanced cooking incorporates locally foraged produce alongside a few influences from his native Spain, such as ajo blanco or cod buñuelo; the cep tiramisu, meanwhile, has become something of a signature.