福都酒店

Opened in 2020, this is the first outpost of Tokyo's famed restaurant Den outside of Japan. Exploring the vast repertoire of Taiwanese produce with traditional Japanese techniques, Sho serves a single menu including two signature dishes lifted from Den: a green salad made with 10+ local vegetables that have been fried, steamed, ground or pickled, and two versions of kamameshi, which may include local yam, Brussels sprouts and sakura shrimp.

The lofty room is a soothing patchwork of camel and neutral shades set off by gun metal grey. Besides sitting at the arc-shaped counter or round tables, you can also book a room for more privacy. The kitchen brigade from Macau and Hong Kong crafts three set menus, showcasing gourmet dried seafood like bird’s nest and abalone and updating 1980’s Cantonese favourites with novel twists. Concise selection of French wines, but a very varied tea menu.

Having honed his skills in some famous kitchens in Taiwan, Chef Kang, a Taipei native, chose to start his first venture in Kaohsiung. With an open kitchen and counter seats, the earth-toned room exudes warmth and understated elegance. The single set menu that is served features local and Japanese produce astutely prepared in Japanese-French style. The menu changes every season but always includes one course inspired by Kaohsiung culture.

For 20+ years, locals have been swooning over the pork knuckle rice here – ham hock braised in a marinade with spices and Chinese herbs, served with a glistening amber sauce; the peppery aftertaste is spellbinding. Steamed rice from Hualian and a julienne of crispy bamboo shoots cut through the richness. Marine fish cooked to order are also a firm favourite. Noodle lovers can't get enough of the umami-laden pork bone broth lifted by veggie sweetness.

Converted from Taipower Company former staff housing, this tiny gem serves five Chinese double-boiled soups that come with a side, plus your choice of rice or noodles. Spicy food lovers shouldn't miss the oyster chicken soup with chillies – vegetables nicely complement the umami of free-range chicken legs and oysters from Yunlin . For staples, try Koshihikari rice from Japan mixed with Tainan No. 16 and topped with nori pork floss.

Nestled in a department store, the simple space makes an impression with turquoise walls and striking light fixtures. Since the 1960s, this family business has been serving traditional banquet dishes best enjoyed with alcohol. The fourth-generation owner still follows the same ethos; his big-flavoured dishes come in large sharing portions. The deeply flavoured braised cabbage is stewed for 3 hours with dried shrimps, dried plaice and chicken bones.

After selling sticky rice in a market for 10-plus years, the owner couple opened this shop in 2021. Tables are set on a plant-adorned porch with tiled floor and walls; the cartoon duck and handwritten logo create a strong visual identity. The signature boneless duck sticky rice entices with its sesame oil and ginger aromas, while taro pork rib soup boasts starchy tuber infused with meaty flavours. Honey black tea from Taitung makes the perfect pairing.