客栈 Kingyoya

The chef prizes ‘combinations of flavours and aromas’. His mentor in Paris, Christian Le Squer, taught him to seek out new flavours by developing the sensibility of a perfumer. Experience and ideas come together in the ‘Warm Salad’. Vegetables picked in the Takagamine district of Kyoto’s Kita Ward are cooked in a variety of ways, drawing the flavour of each to the fore. Interplay of aromas between char-grilled meat dishes and their sauces express this fare’s unique character.

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving

Shinya Matsumoto expresses delicacy and rustic beauty through his cooking. A perfect example is his grilled offerings, cooked upright as if around a sunken hearth. Matsumoto polishes his artisanal skills with a keen eye fixed on the culinary techniques of antiquity. Foods are grilled upright over charcoal in a pot, concentrating their flavour as they roast. The meat and fish’s natural fats fall onto the charcoal, wreathing each item in smoke that adds to their aroma. The chef’s perspective and techniques draw out delicious flavours.

This fare shows equal reverence for the aesthetics and traditions of Japanese cuisine and for classical works of art. The teahouse-style interior that greets guests is appointed with hanging scrolls, vases and other accoutrements accumulated over many years. To harmonise with the serving-ware, cuisine is presented simply, accentuating the beauty of blank spaces. Knowledge of home-brewed sake and fermentation pay tribute to traditional foods. ‘Doppo’, meaning ‘unique’, was a favourite phrase of epicure Rosanjin Kitaoji, a devotee of beauty in all its manifestations.

A soba shop in a row of old houses on Kuramaguchi-dori. Pass through the noren curtain and the earth-floor entrance, and the nostalgic sight of tatami seating and tables on wooden floors puts you immediately at ease. ‘Zaru soba’, soba on a bamboo draining basket with dipping sauce, is made from 100% buckwheat flour for aroma and quality finish. A sharkskin grater and stick of wasabi are provided, so you can start grating your wasabi while you wait for your soba. Enjoy soba dishes to your heart’s content, including buckwheat tofu and buckwheat red-bean soup.

Tozentei takes its name from a fictitious restaurant in a novel. ‘Tozen’ means ‘tipsy,’ a state of being slightly and comfortably under the influence; the name invites guests to find pleasure in both tucker and tipple. The fabric of human relations in this family-run restaurant exudes a feel of immersion in a cheerful TV drama or story. Tilefish steamed with plums and kombu consummately combines the flavour of the fish flesh with the tartness of dried plums. Tozentei is located close to Tenmangu, a shrine famous for the plum trees beloved by the poet and statesman Sugawara no Michizane. The co

Light dining is the chef’s approach. For the amuse-bouche, the theme is ‘five flavours’. A medley of finger foods adds a playful touch; roast wagyu comes in a clear sauce of beef juices. The meal concludes on a Japanese note, with soba. A soup of vegetable cut ends is poured into the bowl, adding value while ensuring nothing is wasted. The meal weaves abundant experience and creative evolution, unfolding as a biography in food.