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Kemeralti, a maze of streets with a picturesque square, is the heart of Izmir. Aysa, a restaurant full of character, is right at home in this idyllic location. The cold and hot buffet offers a wealth of Bosnian and Ottoman delicacies that you can load up on to your heart's content. For instance, you might start with marinated grape leaves stuffed with a delicious filling of rice and various spices, continue with some lamb stew and finish with some wonderfully moist baklava. NB: Reservations are not accepted, so be sure to arrive in good time!

As soon as you are seated in this very spacious and warmly decorated restaurant with its striking modern conservatory, you are served some mezze. This gesture speaks volumes about the generous nature of your hosts. The dishes here – especially the grill specialities – showcase the aromatic depth of traditional Turkish cuisine. Lamb shoulder, oven-roasted and succulent, is infused with spices, paprika and green chilli. A platter of assorted grilled meats is a must. Tea is of course served with a few complimentary desserts, such as fabulous baklava. There is no way that you will still be hungry

Venture down this side street on the edge of the Konak district to savour traditional Aegean cuisine as the locals do. The chefs work with fresh ingredients purchased at the market that very morning and showcase their offerings in the display counter, from mezze to the side dishes you choose with your main course. Vine leaves are stuffed with boldly seasoned rice, lamb is slowly cooked to retain its succulence and accompanied by a buckwheat ragout; pumpkin is cooked with cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaf and finished with a sweet caramel sauce. These are dishes with soul, prepared with personali

You enter a butcher's shop with an impressively well-stocked counter and are guided to the restaurant tucked away at the back. An almost magical atmosphere reigns in the colourful dining areas, and that is added to by the old Turkish classics playing on vinyl records. This place is certainly one of a kind! The grill and house-reared meats take centre stage. Take your pick from the counter, where you'll find top-quality dry-aged steak and beef burgers, and order some mezze that are bursting with flavour. The chefs grill lamb ribs, for example, to a perfect rosy pink with the fat cap crisped to

Take the lift to the ninth floor of Swissôtel and immerse yourself in the elegant setting of Scappi. It's definitely worth trying to secure a spot on the terrace, where you get to take in the views of the bay and the sea – the sunsets are simply divine! But perhaps you would prefer to home in on the action in the partially open kitchen complete with pizza oven. With great skill, the chefs rustle up dishes such as a creamy risotto with barbecued squid, al dente house-made pasta with an aromatic tomato sauce, or freshly caught sea bass with a saffron-infused lime sauce. This is a popular place,

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