黑马酒店 巴黎 潘坦

Lao Siam stands out from the crowd of Asian eateries in Belleville. Founded in 1985 by the current owner's parents, who were originally from Thailand and Laos, this neighbourhood restaurant is an institution that celebrates the cuisines of these two countries. Everything is made on site by the three Souksavanh brothers for fine, flavoursome food that is full of flavour: crying tiger and its spicy sauce, thadeua nem (Lao crispy rice salad), tom kha soup, red ruby dessert with coconut milk. If the place is full, head to the adjoining Ama Siam, which has a short menu of specials.

In this friendly "Asian canteen", sisters Katia and Tatiana Levha offer simple dishes of mixed inspiration (China, Philippines, Thailand etc) in an upgraded "street food" vein. This is cooking that is full of character, with pronounced flavours, and often deliciously spicy. A fun experience and tasty fare.

A gem of a Parisian brasserie, where Marius de Ponfilly, formerly chef at Clamato, has teamed up with Kevin Deulio. Previously at Bar Vendôme in The Ritz, the latter has taken to the restaurant floor like a duck to water. The pair have found a formula that is as irreverent as it is on point: choice cuts of meat and plates to be shared between friends (aka soces in Parisian slang), not forgetting their trademark fish and seafood… We recommend the Pyrenean trout and its indulgent basil sauce, or the delicious wedge clams from Le Guilvinec in a spicy parsley sauce.

In the buzzy Jourdain district of Paris, a hotspot of gentrification, head to this Golden Horse with your eyes closed. Behind an oriental red façade, you will find a pared-back interior of polished concrete, untreated walls and an open kitchen where you will sample the handiwork of an Australian chef of Philippine origins. Gallic and Chinese gourmet traditions are savvily merged and treated to an inspired new spin to the delight of a trendy, cosmopolitan crowd. Steamed cod, endive braised in ginger, apple and spring onion sauce; croque madame, shrimps and chili pepper oil; tortellini, minced v

This is the kind of bistro-cum-wine bar that ensures that Paris will always be Paris! Picture the scene: the owner, sporting a jaunty cap and bristly beard, greets you with a broad grin and seats you at your table, before going on to recommend a good wine produced by one of his mates. In the kitchen, British chef Ollie Clark (Bruno Doucet's former second-in-command) rolls out a big-boned, no-fuss menu (there is often offal to be had), crafted from quality ingredients that the owner has carefully selected: pâté en croûte of guinea fowl, foie gras and pork; vol-au-vent of poultry, chanterelle mu

Cuisine of the moment, full of freshness and with spot-on flavours. Among the classics, on the menu all year round, the frogs' legs, garlic and parsley or the mousse au chocolat praliné are good enough to spark a riot. The decor has the good taste to make itself discreet. The small sidewalk terrace is welcome in summer.

In the steep lanes between Belleville and Ménilmontant, this well-worn bistro has kept its old counter and vintage woodwork. Spot-on, flavoursome lunchtime menu at bargain prices. In the evening, a lineup of traditional dishes to share: charcuterie, terrines and black/white pudding from a breeder of black pigs from Tarn; tempura of black pollock and tartare sauce; vol-au-vent of chicken, girolles and comté; verbena-laced plum pie… Bookings essential.