Le Paddock des Caloges

A few hundred metres from the seafront, amid crêperies and other taverns, don't hesitate to bag a table at this inviting, colourful eatery run by the proprietor of Le Donjon – Domaine Saint-Clair, a Michelin-starred restaurant in the upper town. Le Bel Ami is just the ticket for Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, starting with mezze (fatteh of beef tataki; carpaccio of grilled watermelon and camembert espuma or cappuccino-style ceviche), before tucking into a superb piece of croaker cooked in a vine leaf, spinach gnudi and arak-flavoured bisque. Wine tasting and sales take place in a small wine c