谷町君 星酒店 松竹云 京都四条烏丸

The chef, a native of the Goto Islands, weaves the flavours of Nagasaki into his prix fixe menus. He beguiles his guests with the fish of his native region, served as sashimi and wanmono. ‘Hatoshi’ is minced shrimp between two slices of crispy fried toast; Goto udon is a beloved local old favourite. With cultivated kappo technique, the chef turns common dishes into pictures of elegance. ‘Hakuran’ is an amalgam of his parents’ names. Sharing the charms of Nagasaki with the diners of Kyoto is an act of gratitude to his hometown.

The name ‘Wagokoro’ was chosen as the chef aims for cuisine that calms the soul. Rather than pursue beautiful presentation for its own sake, the chef seeks a natural appearance that delights the hearts of diners. This commitment shines in grilled items such as rolled omelette and sweetfish, as well as in bowls of stewed items. Handmade thick-fried tofu and fish cake are the perfect companions to their broth. Flavours as only a chef who has toiled earnestly in the fields of Kyoto cooking can produce.

Guests are greeted with a cup of Kakegawa tea from the chef’s native Shizuoka, while kukicha, tea made from tea twigs, or ‘genmaicha’, green tea made from roasted brown rice, is served between courses. Combinations of foodstuffs convey the distinctiveness of the menu. Fruit is paired with fish and vegetables as their natural sweetness and acidity adds depth and contrast. Meat dishes are a vital part: depending on the season, diners may be entertained by meat hot-pots created before their eyes. The chef caters to guest preferences with a flexible imagination, pursuing an experience tailored for

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.

Flexible and creative while revering the classics, Kinobu adds new twists to the way Kyoto cuisine reflects yearly events and the changing of the seasons. At the heart of the chef’s approach is a restless curiosity. He corresponds regularly with overseas chefs to deepen his store of knowledge. His ‘wine menu’ of dishes that pair well with wine is an innovation that broadens the scope of kaiseki. Kinobu began as a caterer and transformed itself into a ryotei. Treading a contemporary path, Kinobu keeps its eye on the future.

Seasonal notes and playfulness abound in the menu. Simple preparations etch themselves in the memory. During the Gion Festival, SEN displays a replica of the Naginata Boko, the first float in the festival’s parade, reflecting the city’s traditional events and customs. At the close of the meal, choose from an assortment of comfort foods such as mackerel sushi, chazuke and ramen. The chef learned to ‘read the room’ as an apprentice and is known to change ingredients and preparation styles based on guests’ conversation. The spirit of graceful service, expressed in cooking.

An amiable couple from Nagasaki run this restaurant. The husband, an admirer of Kyoto cuisine, left his family’s kappo restaurant to gain experience in Kyoto. As he studied ways to present food, he fell in love with the bounty of ingredients available and decided to go independent. His habit is to visit producing regions, securing fresh ingredients in season, such as picking wild edible plants and mushrooms in Miyama and angling for sweetfish in Shiga. Under the tutelage of a potter, he makes his own ceramics, on which the couple serve their culinary creations.