Au Lion d'or

Chef Christophe Dufossé has been thriving in his homeland, as his cooking illustrates. This pretty château set in leafy grounds sports a contemporary conservatory extension. Here, he champions organic, self-sufficient and sustainable surf and turf cooking centred on vegetables and produce from the North. Every dish is delicately yet generously crafted – and flanked by robust classic sauces. The dishes speak for themselves – monkfish gratin with a sabayon sauce and its ragout of clams, razor clams and cockles. Other highlights are the bread and sweets, particularly the incredibly lavish dessert

Few chefs show such a strong culinary personality as Alexandre Gauthier in La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil. The story unfolds in a space with two tiered metal rooftops (designed by architect Patrick Bouchain) and views onto the verdant surroundings and the kitchens. This is the laboratory in which the chef cooks up "contemporary cuisine with French roots, liberated from its certainties and preconceptions". Like an alchemist, he teases out flavours in on-point dishes, each a vignette of creativity in which the ingredients sing the praises of the seasons. Artistic and experimental cuisine, to be sav

A ‘bacôve’ is a large flat-bottomed boat used by the vegetable growers of the marshes of St Omer to transport their crops. It is emblematic of Camille Delcroix’ inspiration (Top Chef 2018 winner) and of his soothing, nature-inspired restaurant. He crafts razor-sharp menus, inspired by first-rate locally sourced produce in a surf ‘n turf vein. The chef’s preoccupation with presentation shines through, both in the choice of tableware as in the colours and graphics of each plate. Finally, Carla and her smiling team bend over backwards to make you feel at home.

Poised between Steenvoorde and Saint-Omer in the heart of Flanders, Cassel is a darling of a brick-built village. A small village for a tiny restaurant. Housed in a beautiful 18C abode with space for just 20 diners, it is run by owners who are truly passionate about fine cuisine. Chef Eugène Hobraiche meticulously crafts contemporary cuisine that goes hand in hand with seasonal produce, using local fruit and vegetables, as well as fish from Dunkirk's market: salmon confit with Sichuan pepper, textures of cabbage and shiitake dashi; roasted pollack, mustard and multi-coloured carrot gnocchi. To

This spruce, endearing bistro on the main square of Illies is smoothly and passionately run by former Top Chef contestant, Christophe Pirotais and his partner Julie Dieudonné. Their gutsy indulgent cuisine is unveiled in an inspired, big-boned surprise menu, illustrated by a delicate pannacotta of white asparagus with radish-flavoured ice cream or a fillet of seabream escorted by chickpea fritters and a creamy jus of smoked herring roe. The welcome is warm and cheerful and the service is as smooth as a silky bearnaise sauce. Lovely rear patio for alfresco dining in fine weather.

In this handsome, converted, red-brick farmhouse, Maëllie Poynard and Alexandre Laboureur champion local produce with heartwarming sincerity. Everything comes from small local producers from the seasonal veg to the meat. The chef has no qualms about expressing her creativity or trying out unexpected pairings: for example, caviar and chocolate in a match that turns out to be made in heaven. Spot-on technique, a contemporary interior and the relaxed, peaceful pace of a country village: Origine is very aptly named! Rooted, flavoursome food conjured up by an inventive, enthusiastic team.

The former caretaker’s lodge in the grounds of Château de Bac-Saint-Maur is now home to this modern restaurant. Bathed in light thanks to huge picture windows, the interior decoration sings an ode to the seasons. Lobster, cucumber and mint to start; monkfish, green peas and smoked sabayon as a main with strawberries and sorrel to finish: the chef aims to surprise with cuisine that is intelligently creative, starring first-rate, local and seasonal produce.