郡山花样酒店

‘Kuko’ is the goji berry, reputed to be a natural drug granting longevity and perpetual youth. A devotee of traditional Chinese medicinal cuisine, the chef follows the principles ‘You are what you eat’ and ‘Healthy food can help prevent and support recovery from illness’. Thus guided, he takes up Nara ingredients to prepare dishes that minister tenderly to the body’s needs. Prix fixe meals revolve around both Nara and Chinese vegetables, all grown in the restaurant’s own garden. Dishes arranged on Jingdezhen porcelain are a gorgeous sight. Music of the guqin, the ancient Chinese seven-stringed

The detached house looks at home amid the venerable townscape of old Nara. Enter the traditional wooden townhouse, however, and a modern atrium greets you, juxtaposing old with new. Offering ‘cuisine that reflects the milieu of Nara and the four seasons’, the owner-chef shines a spotlight on local ingredients, arranging them according to the flavours of the season. Wagyu from Uda is char-grilled; spring is celebrated with Japanese pepper flower, and autumn with matsutake mushrooms. Antique dishware brings out the beauty of simple presentations.

The concept is ‘together with nature’. The chef takes inspiration from ingredients he sources from producers with whom he has strong relationships. Vegetables, river fish, meat, tea; all cultivated in the natural beauty of Nara. The breath of each season and the chef’s passion find clear expression in the prix fixe offerings. Menus list ingredients only. The chef loves to share the features of each terroir, the personalities of the food producers, and anecdotes about cooking.

‘Nikon’, meaning ‘live to the full in this moment’, was the principle advocated by Zen master Dogen Zenji (1200–1253). Every day in his kitchen the chef displays the sincere devotion to Japanese cuisine he has had ever since he began at the bottom of the ladder. He focuses above all on the right timing for handling his ingredients: when to prep, when to slice, and so on. Serving at just the right temperature is vital as well. This craftsman’s spirit of applying every ounce of effort in the present moment is reflected in the name of the restaurant.

Seiji Matsushima grows crops and makes pottery. He doesn’t just knead earth, though, he also kneads soba. The thin juwari soba set out on dishes he made himself exudes rusticity and the way of life of a self-described farmer. He grows the buckwheat berries for the sobagaki himself. Basil picked in the field in the summer is served with soba topped with a thick dashi-rich sauce, and winter yuzu is served with hot soba. Grated daikon is used in place of wasabi.

‘Akordu’ is Basque for ‘memories’. Chef Hiroshi Kawashima invokes memories from his ingredients, encapsulating messages in his cooking. Each course in the prix fixe meal comes with a card; menu names are akin to story titles. Kawashima interprets the history and cultural topography of Nara through a modern Spanish sensibility cultivated in Basque country. Cuisine bursting with creativity, beautifully prepared and arranged.

Guided by the motto ‘Dainty comes from cordiality’, the chef approaches his cuisine with care. Seasonal Yamato vegetables are sourced from nearby farms, as he came to appreciate how fresh vegetables can be while working at a restaurant with its own fields. Hassun platters combine classical techniques with new ideas. The menu reflects the traditions of Japanese cuisine and the touch of the seasons. The chef’s sincere approach shows in his work, a constant reminder of his gratitude for nature’s bounty.