恵比寿荘

The chef seeks to feel and convey the terroir of Ohara, through its climate, landscape, and produce. Early each morning he visits the market, to listen to the farmers and think about recipes for the vegetables on offer that day. Prix fixe menus interweave wild mountain greens and flowers with game, drawing the diner into the natural milieu of the rural mountain communities. Food is cooked over a wood fire fed by lumber from forest thinning. In the counter kitchen, he tends a brightly burning flame, his attention focused on the food he’s preparing.

The aesthetic of ‘wabi-sabi’, restraint and impermanence, breathes in the walls of this veteran ryotei. The garden of moss-covered stone lanterns and washbasins, channels flowing with clear streams from Lake Biwa and a still, quiet tea arbour all give it a shadowed atmosphere. Hyotei eggs are a tradition handed down through generations from the founder. Eiichi Takahashi changed the dashi from dried bonito to dried tuna; tomato and soy sauce gracing Akashi sea bream sashimi is a permutation courtesy of the current chef, Yoshihiro Takahashi. Over the years, layers of innovation build up to cater

The wooden tablet at the entrance expresses the house credo: ‘Garnish rice cooked in the okudo stove with char-grilled snacks and wild grasses and flowers’. To learn more, you’ll have to visit the restaurant yourself. In an age of information exchange, Nakahigashi offers an opportunity to clear one’s mind and experience cuisine of herbs and grasses. In short, be grateful to others and for the bounty of nature, remembering that the truly important things cannot be seen with the eyes. An experience of noticing things awaits.

The ambience is still, like a mountain retreat in the heart of the city. The flicker of votive lanterns casts a tenor of rustic simplicity. While he worked to polish his cooking skills, Hitoshi Ishihara also encountered Zen teachings. Inspired by the wabicha spirit of the tea ceremony, Ishihara strives to host each dinner as a single gathering, with guests and host in close communication. Generous portions reinforce the mood of celebration. ‘Mizai’ is a Zen word meaning ‘not yet here’; for Ishihara, tireless self-improvement is a never-ending journey.

This fare shows equal reverence for the aesthetics and traditions of Japanese cuisine and for classical works of art. The teahouse-style interior that greets guests is appointed with hanging scrolls, vases and other accoutrements accumulated over many years. To harmonise with the serving-ware, cuisine is presented simply, accentuating the beauty of blank spaces. Knowledge of home-brewed sake and fermentation pay tribute to traditional foods. ‘Doppo’, meaning ‘unique’, was a favourite phrase of epicure Rosanjin Kitaoji, a devotee of beauty in all its manifestations.

Kikunoi is spreading the word worldwide about the allure of Japanese cuisine. Yoshihiro Murata sets his sights on innovation while evangelising Kyoto’s graceful ryotei culture. Occasionally Western ingredients get added to the mix, infusing a contemporary sensibility. Change accumulates in layers here, as a result of shifting personnel: Chef Murata invites trainees from overseas to pass on to them the true nature of Japanese cuisine and Japanese traditions of service. Fixing his gaze on the future of Japanese cooking, Murata cultivates the next generation of chefs.

Next to Shimogamo Shrine, surrounded by the Tadasu-no-Mori forest, lies Kyokaiseki Kichisen. The chef, a devotee of Japanese cuisine and the performing arts, built a ryotei on this spot. Respectful of Kyoto traditions, menu items are accompanied by charming details. Lids of soup dishes are emblazoned with dew, expressing freshness. Tuna sashimi is arrayed like a sea of clouds, creating a fairytale-like scene. Serving dishes of Kyoyaki ceramics, garnished with fresh-cut flowers, beguile the eyes. A unique interpretation of Kyoto kaiseki, accompanied by the spirit of graceful service.